The challenges for Brunello di Montalcino: climate change, mapping and wood management

“Benvenuto Brunello 2021” was held this year in the “off” version, due to the Pandemic, but was still 141 companies strong, amid the very strict rules and regulations Covid-19 has imposed. The first two days (March 6th and 7th dedicated to a few selected journalists) focused, evidently, on the 2016 vintage and on the 2015 Riserva, to celebrate their exceptional greatness. The numbers also confirm their excellence, as 9 million DOCG seals were consigned to as many bottles of Brunello di Montalcino, ready for sale. This figure marked +12.2% growth compared to 2019 and +4.3% on the average growth over the last 5 years. The producers themselves are the first to believe in the excellence of these vintages, which the most influential wine critics have saluted with enthusiastic comments, to say the least. The WineNews tastings responses followed the same trend, starting from practical and substantial data; that is, the scores of Brunello di Montalcino 2016, compared to those of the superb 2015 vintage (more concentrated, to use a single word, very good stature, but certainly a notch lower than 2016, which is, to describe it simply, deeper, more balanced and in a long-term scenario, more long-lived), show appraisals on average that are higher and more spread out among the various wine producers. In the end, actually, it is the most tangible sign, at least considering the in the glass test, of a great vintage. However, besides this rewarding confirmation, “Benvenuto Brunello 2021” (which, as anticipated, also announced the evaluation of the 2020 vintage that received a rating of five stars out of five, plus the celebratory plaque signed by the award winning swim champion, Federica Pellegrini, who was in the video posted by WineNews together with testimonies from two world critics, James Suckling and Monica Larner of Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate) also had a surprise to offer. There was a tasting of Rosso di Montalcino 2019, which with a comfortable margin of safety can anticipate a positive scenario of what Brunello di Montalcino 2019 will be like (coming out in 2024), which will probably be only a fraction of the stupendous 2016 vintage.
The Montalcino wineries production of selections and / or vineyard wines have continued to grow, enhancing their wine portfolios, developing a more concentrated search for the most coherent and precise expression of the territory (and perhaps, between the lines, sending a "message in the bottle" for a more well-defined mapping of the denomination). The Brunello ‘base’ has historically been composed of a mix of Sangiovese grapes from vineyards distributed in the various quadrants of the denomination, and more and more often accompanied by one or more special wines, obtained from specific geographic places. There seems to be more information about space for wood barrels, at one time occupied by barriques in reduction, and which the Montalcino wine producers have proposed, in this case, to ultimately enhance the temperament and territoriality of the wines following the complex five-year maturation period, "a blessing and a curse" for Brunello.
The distinctive traits of the historical character of pure Sangiovese, invented by the Biondi Santi family in the nineteenth century - impetuous, sometimes arrogant, but always generous - in the recent past seemed to be the prerogative of the southern side of Montalcino. The denomination now, though, has proved to be more uniform and even the wines on the opposite side are growing stronger, and showing, in their current status, a pinch more articulation. Of course, one has to keep in mind the climate factor, which is clearly heating up, and the consequences this is creating. The problem cannot be left on the back burner, as we say, even in these fortunate latitudes, where temperatures always vary and there is abundant ventilation.
Let’s talk instead about the best wines tasted in the Cloister of the Museum in Montalcino, starting with the 2016 vintage. Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 2016 by Altesino has a floral and earthy aromatic range, accompanied by a compact and succulent mouth, "governed" by a rigid tannin structure. Brunello di Montalcino 2016 by Armilla is a surprise because of its grace and articulation, including hints of earth, humus, berries and spices in a modulated and well expressed aromatic framework, anticipating a supple palate, sometimes balsamic, tonic and essentially refined. Brunello di Montalcino 2016 by Baricci is definitely a balanced and proportionate wine. It has odors of graphite, laurel citrus and flowers on a citrusy background, presenting a gritty and very intense flavor.
The Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Marrucheto 2016 presents aromas of sweet spices, tobacco and red fruit and generally a broad taste progression with fruity hints on the finish. The Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino La Casaccia 2016 has good aromatic consistency and warm, generous and structured taste characteristics. Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2016 by Caparzo offers aromas centered on sweet fruit and well-integrated oak nuances, with a solid taste progression, juicy and well defined. Brunello di Montalcino 2016 by Caprili is floral and slightly chalky on the nose, with a contrasting and sweet taste, and some woody touches on the finish.
The Casanova di Neri 2016 Brunello di Montalcino has continually interchanging ripe red fruit and spices, and on the palate a well-modulated modernist dimension between tasty tannins and a fruity aftertaste. The Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta 2016 has aromas of red fruits, wild berries and forest floor, incisive and good intensity on the palate, with a woody aftertaste on the finish. The Campo del Drago Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2016 has well-structured aromas, which cross lush spicy fruit; it is juicy on the palate with some tannic austerity. The Cava d’Onice Brunello di Montalcino Colombaio 2016 has a fragrant nose of flowers and small red fruits, with a juicy and continuous taste progression. The Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso 2016 has an olfactory impact that is almost overwhelming, with a pressing, juicy, voluptuous and peppery taste progression. The Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino La Mannella 2016 has fragrant aromas and good clarity, and its strength is in the full and tasty, but contrasting mouth. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino by Fattoi has a beautiful aromatic character of iron and wood, offering an incisive, tasty and genuine palate. The Franco Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2016 has nuanced aromas of aromatic herbs and red fruit, with a clean and well-modulated taste of savory and fruity ranges.
The Le Ragnaie 2016 Brunello di Montalcino has distinguishing aromas of wild strawberries, slightly withered flowers and licorice, with a citrusy and snappy taste progression of limpid purity. The Lisini 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is well defined and elegant with earthy and fruity aromas, an outstanding and not only alcoholic drive, long on the palate with taut accents.
The Brunello di Montalcino 2016 by Piancornello has an aromatic profile of earth, red fruits and hints of Mediterranean herbs. In the mouth it has a rhythmic and snappy expansion, juicy and inviting. The Brunello di Montalcino 2016 by Pietroso is clear and has an aromatic spectrum profile, fragrant and with measured chalky reflections, fresh and balsamic taste, decidedly well balanced taste components, expressed with rhythm and persistence. The Poggio di Sotto 2016 Brunello di Montalcino has deep and gentle aromas of ripe cherry, violet and licorice that accompany a continuous mouth, a fine tannic texture and strong aftertaste of fruit and spices. The Brunello di Montalcino 2016 by Salvioni has a full, ripe, fruity and spicy tone evidenced in the nose, great drive and depth on the palate, ample, warm and still fruity in its taste progression.
The San Polo Brunello di Montalcino Podernovi 2016 has a sweet and ripe impact with a spicy and slightly earthy finish on the nose, a very flavorful taste progression and frequent light and dark nuances. The San Lorenzo 2016 Brunello di Montalcino has a citrus and earthy aromatic profile, with a savory taste and sometimes austere tannins. The Solaria Brunello di Montalcino 31 Anni 2016 opens on red fruit and spice in the nose and moves firmly in the mouth with tannins in the foreground, to accompany a juicy progression and good drive. The Talenti Brunello di Montalcino Piero 2016 has a nice nose, dark and intense features with greatly balanced oak, anticipating a juicy, rich and deep mouth. The Val di Suga Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Lago 2016 has convincing aromas with floral and spicy traits that cross forest floor and smoky hints, and the taste progression is gritty, savory and decisive.
Continuing the tastings with the 2015 Riserva, the Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Fontelontano Riserva 2015 by Collemattoni stands out with a series of aromas combining floral and spicy touches and hints of small red fruits and smoky tones, to a rhythmic juicy taste progression and an almost spicy finish. The Tenuta di Sesta Brunello di Montalcino Duelecci Ovest Riserva 2015 is intense and bright on the nose, recalling the forest floor, small red fruits and gunpowder, producing a flavorful, fine and ample mouth. The Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio all'Oro Riserva 2015 is sweet and mentholated in the nose, which develops like an amphora in the mouth, initially light and floral, then gradually more adherent, warm, and juicy cherry in the finish. The Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 has accents of violet in the colors and flavors, enriched with citrus and balsamic notes that are also present in the mouth feel, making it fresh and rhythmic, and the final flavor is fruity. The La Magia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 is intense on the nose in an explosion of red fruit and aromatic herbs, balanced and tasty in the mouth, leaving a long citrusy and peppery sensation.
The Lisini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015, on the other hand, tastes of crispy cherries, rose and camellia, with a fresh rhythm in the mouth, in open dialogue with the warm part of the mouth, which finishes pleasantly sweet and herbal. The Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 presents bloody and fruity notes, which in the mouth progresses to strong flavors of cherry, a strong savory soul and smooth tannins. The Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 has olfactory impressions that are also bloodstained, made of complex notes of forest floor and ripe red fruit, also taken up in the mouthful, sweet, adherent and almondy in the finish. The Sesti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 has welcoming aromas and flavors, in which hints of saline, Maremma dunes, citrus groves and wild berries make the mouth refined but decisive, sweet but adherent, in a perfect harmonious balance.
Last but not least, the Terralsole Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 has graceful wisteria and violet aromas, wild strawberry and rosemary flowers, which in the mouth translate into warmth, adherence, peppery flavor and a fruity finish.
And then, the tastings of Rosso di Montalcino 2019 wines, which as we mentioned above, appear to give indications of an equally intriguing Brunello. Therefore, here is a really delectable "quintet". The Baricci Rosso di Montalcino 2019 offers a very beautiful aromatic profile, fruit that is nothing short of crisp and fragrant and touches of field grass and delicate spiciness in the finish. The mouth is dynamic, airy, contrasted and very flavorful. The Giuseppe Gorelli Rosso di Montalcino 2019 aromatic profile could be called Burgundy because of its finely chiseled floral tones, small red fruits such as pomegranate and forest floor that introduce a fragrant and crystalline mouth feel. The Pietroso Rosso di Montalcino 2019 has a fine, soft and detailed aromatic imprint, softened by floral tones, with a gentle taste and deep articulation. The Salvioni Rosso di Montalcino 2019 has an olfactory impact that is all about fragrant red fruit, with a fresh, nervous and rhythmic palate, extensive substance and an intriguing, almost salty aftertaste. The Tiezzi Rosso di Montalcino Poggio Cerrino 2019 has a sense of authenticity and consistency in the aromas of red fruits, earth and forest floor, with a contrasted, tonic and insatiable taste progression. Tastings that have been added to (and, for the most part, confirm) those the WineNews staff carried out for the monograph on Brunello, published in January 2021, in the monthly newsletter "I Quaderni di WineNews", WineNews notebooks, (but there will also be many reviews in the following ones and in the weekly inserts, "I Vini di WineNews", WineNews wines), and the star players were: Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Doria 2016, a solidly classic style with its layered aromas of cherry, plum, tobacco, hints of iron and earth, which moves in the mouth with great balance and articulation; the Giodo Brunello di Montalcino 2016, fine and sensual mouth, tannins well blended with fruit, a convincing drink immediately, but which suggests a pleasant evolution over time; the Gianni Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino 2016, on the nose it shows balsamic tones, red fruits, citrus fruits, and a slight smoky note, while on the palate it is fresh and cheerful, with a gentle tannic articulation and vibrant with savory acidity; the Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2016, plays on notes of withered flowers, licorice, orange, balsamic and smoky touches and presents a mouth with impetuous acidity, an austere tannic silhouette and slightly savory along the finish. The Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2016 has aromas that are not yet completely settled, but it already stands out for nuances and contrasts. It has great expressive rigor and beautiful eloquence on the palate, where the tannins are savory and vibrant in a development of admirable naturalness. The Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto 2016 has already expanded aromas of aromatic herbs, red fruit, forest floor and spices, a juicy mouth, pleasant in the salty and balsamic aftertaste, an ample and intriguing texture. The Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie 2016 on the nose has Mediterranean scrub, spices, berries, tobacco and a graceful woody contribution, which develops a harmonious mouth, of dense tannins, tonic and exuberant fruit and balanced acidity; The Casisano Brunello di Montalcino 2016 has shades of sweet fruit, but not overwhelming, thanks to earthy hints, fresh juiciness and intermittent savory peaks; the Fanti Brunello di Montalcino Vallocchio 2016 tastes intensely of cherry both in the nose and in the mouth, with balsamic notes of on the side that make the mouth fresh and pleasantly savory; the Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Soccorso 2016, has a nose that promises sweet juiciness and is not disappointing, thanks to the aromas of laurel, forest floor and ripe cherry, and to a central mouth, peppery and a perfect balance of acidity, tannins and fruity flavor. Lastly, the 2015 Reserves, starting with the Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso Santa Caterina d'Oro Riserva 2015, with its ample hints of forest floor, balsams, spices, flowers and hints of graphite, which are found in the mouth of vibrant acidity, dense tannins and impetuous flavor; the Canalicchio di SopraBrunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015, has lush fruity aromas and spicy and smoky accents in the finish; a solid and articulated mouth, supported by punctual acid verve, which accentuates the flavor and fragrance; the Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino Ripe at the Convento Riserva 2015 tastes of violet and crunchy cherry, bay leaf and blood orange while in the mouth and it is perfectly balanced between freshness and flavor, finishing slightly peppery and sweet; and, finally, the Baricci Brunello di Montalcino Nello Riserva 2015 has aromas of red orange, crunchy cherry, bay leaf and light smoky notes that anticipate a fresh mouth, with amalgamated tannins, good flavor and sweet finish.