Bolgheri 2020 in the name of “freshness and finesse” for Bolgheri Superiore wines

“Bolgheri DiVino”, directed by the Consortium for the Protection of DOC Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia wines, led by Albiera Antinori (Tenuta Guado al Tasso), Cinzia Merli (Le Macchiole) and Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta ( Tenuta San Guido), was the first event to present Tuscany’s wine productions in Bolgheri, the Italian wine territory in absolute top form right now (harvesting has already begun in the vineyards that run along the famous “Cypress Avenue”), which will be on the market in the near future. The event looks to the future, as we have written here, and therefore inaugurated the season of the great “Previews” of wine produced in the land of Dante and the Renaissance. The various events will follow each other closely during the last few months of 2022 and the beginning of 2023.
The stars of the event were Bolgheri Superiore vintage 2020 (and Bolgheri DOC 2021), which will debut on the market in 2023. They have been produced in a year that can be considered regular, at least with respect to the climatic trend in progress, especially at these latitudes, which has allowed the winemakers to bring grapes with balanced ripeness and good levels of acidity to the wineries. The wines, even if we must give the benefit of the doubt to very young samples, in several cases not yet in the bottle, considering that it is an aging type, seemed harmonious and balanced, not showing aromatic, alcoholic and/or phenolic excesses. They were intense and dynamic, deep, and tannins almost never in excess. The winter of 2021 was mild and rainy, while the spring was warm, but it did have a good amount of rainfall, which produced normal vegetative development until the flowering phase. The last rains in June gave way to a hot and dry, but not torrid summer. Then, at the end of August, rainfall led to favorable and opportune lower temperatures, which then rose again in September, just in time for the harvest.
One of the best tastings for WineNews is Bolgheri Superiore “Guarda Boschi” 2020 by Fornacelle - the nose proved intriguing, and the mouth was young and reactive. Mulini di Segalari’s Bolgheri Superiore 2020 is tasty with a basically lean taste, and touches of black cherry and Mediterranean scrub in the aromas. Tenuta Argentiera’s Bolgheri Superiore Argentiera 2020 aromas are very well defined, while expressing an immediate gustatory development and a refined figure. The overall sensations of the Bolgheri Superiore “Dorianae” 2020 in Campo al Pero, become more legible and intriguing in Bolgheri Superiore “Dedicated to Vittorio” 2020. Balsamic and a fruity nose in Bolgheri Superiore “Tam” 2020 by Batzella, as well as a juicy and continuous sip. The Bolgheri Superiore “Dario di Vaira” 2020 by Dario di Vaira has refined aromas and is well contrasted to the taste, which is also replicated in the well-executed Bolgheri Superiore “Frank” 2020. The taste profile of Giorgio Meletti Cavallari’s Bolgheri Superiore “Impronte” 2020 is very enjoyable. Perhaps one of the best is Fabio Motta’s Bolgheri Superiore “Le Gonnare” 2020, which has a fragrant and distinctly Mediterranean aromatic character and a graceful and well-defined sip. The Bolgheri Superiore “Podere Ritoriti” 2020 of I Luoghi is on the same level, and also offers a very good version of its “Campo al Fico”. The Bolgheri Superiore “Arnione” 2020 from Campo alla Sughera is fine and absolutely well executed. The Bolgheri Superiore “Grattamacco” 2020 of Tenuta Grattamacco, a well-executed and very expressive wine, is also recognized for its personality, which is now well established.
The sip of Michele Satta’s Bolgheri Superiore “Piastraia” 2020 is reactive and has well-centered and basically fresh aromas. Touches of aromatic herbs and iron are in the Bolgheri Superiore “Guado al Tasso” 20220 of the Guado al Tasso Estate (Antinori), as well as an intense and proportionate gustatory development. There are hints of Bordeaux in the aromas of the Bolgheri Superiore “Le Colonne“ 2020 by Tenuta Le Colonne, and a pleasantly fragrant taste. The Bolgheri Superiore “Ornellaia” 2020 from Tenuta Ornellaia (Frescobaldi) is highly concentrated, and has rich aromas as well as an enveloping gustatory evolution. The Bolgheri Superiore “Sondraia” 2020 from Poggio al Tesoro (Allegrini) is equally generous. There are still some hints of oak to be absorbed in the Bolgheri Superiore “Bell’Aja” 2020 by San Felice, a well-executed wine with good depth. The Bolgheri Superiore “Guado de’ Gemoli” 2020 by Chiappini is intense and enveloping. The Bolgheri Superiore “Caravera” 2020 by Podere dei Musi is clean and basically harmonious. Spices and fresh ripe red fruits are in Micheletti’s Bolgheri Superiore “Guardione” 2020, and a well expressed taste, which we also find in the Bolgheri Superiore “Poggio Matto” that has an even more pronounced gustatory vivacity. The Bolgheri Superiore “Marchesale” 2020 by Fattoria Terre del Marchesato is very well made. The overall characterization of the Bolgheri Superiore “Maronea” 2020 by Casa di Terra is excellent. The Bolgheri Superiore “Aiola di Orma” 2020 by Orma, which is made of good quality materials and has a solid structure, must still partially develop its aromas. Bolgheri Superiore Castello di Bolgheri 2020 by Tenuta Castello di Bolgheri, is rich and spicy and has a broad and solid taste.
Last but not least, in the Bolgheri Superiore tasting, a surprise epilogue. Actually, it seals a strong, profound and mutual bond of gratitude between the entire territory and the company, the territory which has undeniably and indelibly contributed to placing its products on the International stage of great wines. The 2004 Bolgheri Sassicaia harvest from Tenuta San Guido is splendid and has lined up inviting aromas of small red fruits, spices and balsamic hints, to introduce a savory and lively mouth, well articulated in its tannic texture and the usual refined figure.
The event, in addition to dedicating its focus on the International media, was also innovative. This edition included an absolute novelty, “putting the great Bolgheri wines at the center in their land of origin”, observed Albiera Antinori, president of the Consorzio DOC Bolgheri, “and the 2022 edition of “Bolgheri DiVino” was different from the previous one, because we opened a widespread tasting at the Castle of Castagneto, on September 3rd and 4th, to the public, where the 63 members presented the upcoming vintage, as well as their companies’ top wines, on a tasting path that spread through the halls of the castle, inviting glimpses of the Bolgheri theater from above”.
The Consortium for the Protection of DOC Bolgheri wines, founded in 1995, shortly after the official publication of the 1994 production regulations, today counts 66 wine producers whose vineyards represent over 98% of the total. In 2021, bottled production totaled 7.248.152, boasting a turnover between 150 and 170 million euros, and a value per hectare of around 500.000 euros (WineNews estimate). Although is a very small territory, the producers have been able to make the most of its many and varied facets, and in just a few years Bolgheri wines have become among the most appreciated by critics and the global market. The average age of the vines is almost 16 years, grown on an area of ​​1.300 hectares, which indicates that the entire territory has just entered maturity. Bolgheri DOC is by far the denomination with the highest average value in Italy. Its global success has been confirmed also by the global market index wine producer, Liv-Ex. In 2020, as a matter of fact, out of the 10 most traded wines on the global fine wine trade level, the index reported 3 belonging to the Bolgheri area.