A journey into the past and the present of Valpolicella with vertical by Amarone Serego Alighieri

A journey through history, and not only wine history: at the heart of Masi Seminar No. 36, “L’Amarone tra passato e futuro. Vaio Armaron Serego Alighieri Masterclass” - “Amarone between past and future. Vaio Armaron Serego Alighieri Masterclass”, organized by the Masi Technical Group and held at Vinitaly, there was a vertical tasting of several memorable vintages of Amarone “Vaio Armaron” by Serego Alighieri. This historic winery has been followed by Masi Agricola in its production for over 50 years. Serego Alighieri is the Valpolicella estate with the longest historical tradition: it was founded by Pietro Alighieri, son of Dante Alighieri, who followed his father into exile in Verona and purchased the Casal dei Ronchi estate in Gargagnano, in the heart of Valpolicella, still the core of the property today. The union between the Alighieri and the Serego families dates back to the 16th century and gave rise to the double surname Serego Alighieri carried by their descendants. Today, the estate vineyards include the “Vaio Armaron” Cru, a wine capable of preserving an ancient and distinctive character, starting with its maturation in cherry wood barrels.
The masterclass was also an opportunity to symbolically celebrate a virtuous partnership, marking more than fifty years of shared history: an alliance that began in 1973, when the Boscaini family, owners of Masi, together with its Technical Group, joined forces with the Counts Serego Alighieri in the production of prestigious wines. This collaboration is rooted in a deep bond with the territory and has given rise to a solid relationship that brings together noble tradition and entrepreneurial expertise.
Turning to the glass, Recioto Valpolicella Amarone “Vaio Armaron” 1979, clearly showing its evolution, offers aromas of walnut husk, red fruit jam, and sultana grapes, preceding a progression which still retains liveliness, with sweet nuances and a deep finish. Amarone della Valpolicella Classico “Vaio Armaron” 1988 focuses its aromatic profile on spices, chocolate, and fruit preserved in spirit, with the palate lingering on sweetness, yet also showing fresher notes driven by good acidity. Amarone della Valpolicella Classico “Vaio Armaron” 1997 presents a very mature nose with hints of tobacco and forest undergrowth. On the palate, the wine is not particularly dynamic and ends with a warm, sweet finish. Amarone della Valpolicella Classico “Vaio Armaron” 2008 displays aromas of blueberry jam and strawberry preserves, with spicy and toasted notes. On the palate, it is almost rich and unctuous, with warm, sweet tones. Amarone della Valpolicella Classico “Vaio Armaron” 2017 finds its dominant theme in aromas of licorice and vanilla, complemented by ripe and jammy red fruit. The palate is structured, with firm tannins and a balsamic finish that evokes Mediterranean impressions.
Finally, a decidedly intriguing wine when considering its origins. This is, for now, an experimental vinification starring the Molinara variety, sourced from estate-owned vines planted in 1875 which survived phylloxera, from which the “Serego Alighieri” clone is derived. Molinara, a variety which since 2003 has been reduced to a merely optional complementary role in the Amarone blend, appears to carry notable potential. The 2025 version of this ungrafted Molinara shows a very pale ruby-red color, foreshadowing a lush and vibrant aromatic profile which accompanies a fresh, lively, and highly drinkable palate.