Morellino di Scansano in the glass of WineNews, the oldest Maremma Doc

The “Settimana delle Anteprime”, which has already been in full swing for days, showcases the Morellino di Scansano, Doc since 1978 and Docg since the 2007 vintage, undoubtedly the most significant area of the Maremma, in terms of history and southern Tuscan wine tradition. One of the main protagonists (with the event together with Chianti “Chianti lovers & Rosso Morellino – Preview 2022”), as for some years now, in Florence, crossroads of many wine territories of the Region: a strategic choice that aims to communicate the unity of the territory and of the “Toscana” brand, without renouncing to tell about the vast wine richness that distinguishes it.

The denomination of clear red vocation, which gathers over 350 wineries (200 of which are associated with the Consortium), spread over 1,500 hectares of vineyards, between the municipalities of Scansano, Magliano, Campagnatico, Roccalbegna, Semproniano and Manciano, mostly vines with Sangiovese, but also with Colorino, Ciliegiolo, Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera, Alicante, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, and represent the classic articulation of Tuscan denominations, where companies and brands of considerable size meet with small “cabotage” companies, an oenological industry with productive craftsmanship.

Talking about the evaluation in the glass, the 2021 vintages and the 2019 Riserva are in the spotlight. Two different vintages: on the one hand, a vintage 2021, which was not exempt from some critical issues caused by a generally warm climate, highlighting some weaknesses (tannic rigidity alongside aromatic maturity a little over the top), sometimes inherent in the Morellino di Scansano, notoriously obtained in the area with decidedly Mediterranean characteristics even when the “global warming” was not as pronounced as in the contemporary world; on the other hand, the 2019 vintage, definitely with a more interesting touch, which, while not hiding its more generous characters, did not fail to also express complexity and fragrance.

The Morellino di Scansano 2021 by Antonio Camillo is very generous and pleasantly savory on the palate, with a dark and intense nose. The Morellino di Scansano 2021 by Podere Casina is interesting, with a fruity nose with peppery accents referring to Mediterranean suggestions. Ripe and intense fruit for Terre dell’Etruria Morellino di Scansano Giogo 2021 with a dense and lively taste. The Morellino di Scansano 2021 by Col di Bacche finds a good olfactory balance between dark fruits and tousches of officinal herbs, with a solid and well-defined mouth. The aromas of Terenzi’s Morellino di Scansano 2021 are well marked, with a basically crunchy taste. Slightly vegetal traits in the aromas of Morellino di Scansano Heba 2021 from Fattoria di Magliano, vigorous in its tannic articulation. The taste progression of Morellino di Scansano Roggiano Riserva 2019 from the excellent Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano is articulated. Vigorous texture to enrich a juicy sip for the Morellino di Scansano Laire 2019 selection by the Bruni brothers. Airy in its aromas, the Morellino di Scansano Colli dell’Uccellina Riserva 2019 from La Selva with an agile and savory taste. Nose and tones of wild herbs and hay for the Morellino di Scansano “Poggio Leone” Riserva 2019 by Val delle Rose (Cecchi), witha solid and continuous gustatory progression.

On the side of the adjustments to the production specification, Morellino di Scansano has embarked on a path similar to that of Nobile di Montepulciano (but in the southern Tuscan wine industry we also find the model represented by the Doc Maremma Toscana), expanding the “container” of the denomination with the regional specification, to facilitate the commercial works of producers even outside national borders. a possibility, and not an obligation, is that of being able to use on the label, in addition to the wording “Morellino di Scansano”, also that of “Toscana”, introduced in 2021. An opportunity to exploit the strength of the regional brands that probably allows you to “move” more easily on foreign markets for a denomination mostly concentrated on the Italian market.

From the point of view of numbers, Morellino di Scansano proves to be a healthy appellation, highlighting its “historical role”, especially as a wine destinated for the domestic market and distributed in large-scale distribution: in 2021 – the data are those of the LT Wine & Food Advisory survey – 9.2 million bottles of Morellino di Scansano were produced (+7% on 2019), with a production value of approximately 51 million euros distributed 80% in Italy (the rest is distributed between the USA, Germany, Belgium and Switzerland). In the modern distribution channels, Morellino di Scansano emerges not only for growth in volumes (+5.3%), but also in value (+6.7%) thanks to an increase in the average price of +1.2%. Also on the side of the indicator represented by the bulk price, we find a reassuring positive sign (+47% on 2019) which is expressed with an average value of 330 euros per hectolitre.