“Italian wine among excellence and global challenges”. Among new problems and solutions of always

That the wine market, both Italian and global, is facing difficulties is beyond doubt, equally undeniable, however, it is that the sector in Italy has experienced a decade (2014-2024) of steady growth, with values consistently rising and exports doubling, reaching a record 8.1 billion euros in 2024. While some critical issues are structural (from climate change to shifting consumption patterns, also due to demographic changes) and others are temporary, such as U.S. tariffs (whose real effects, according to everyone, will only be measurable in 2026 with the new price lists), the recipe for overcoming the impasse and boosting consumption remains the same: work as a system, invest in promotion and communication (as the Ministry of Agriculture and Ice will do with a campaign on Rai networks and beyond, highlighting the cultural value of wine consumption), and open new markets without abandoning established ones. These were the messages from the conference organized by the Leonardo Committee - Italia Quality Committee at Ca’ del Bosco, a jewel of Franciacorta founded by the Zanella family and owned by the Herita Marzotto Wine Estates group of the Marzotto family, which saw on the stage Sergio Dompè, president of the Leonardo Committee, Matteo Zoppas, president of Ice, Gaetano Marzotto and Andrea Conzonato, president and ceo of Herita, Antonella Rossetti, member of the Cabinet Committee of the EU Agriculture Commissioner, and, still Federico Bricolo, president of Veronafiere, Ettore Prandini, president of Coldiretti, Giacomo Ponti, president of Federvini, Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv); and Paolo De Castro, president of Nomisma, along with Minister of Agriculture Francesco Lollobrigida, who joined remotely from Rome, moderated by vicedirector of “Il Corriere della Sera” Luciano Ferraro.
And, who commented on the study “Il vino italiano tra eccellenze e sfide globali” - “Italian wine between excellence and global challenges” presented by Denis Pantini of Wine Monitor - Nomisma. It highlighted the strength of a sector comprising 30,000 companies, 16 billion euros in revenue, 8.1 billion euros in exports, and 74,000 employees (16% of the food & beverage industry), with a positive trade balance of 7.5 billion euros (compared to 3.2 billion euros for the entire agri-food sector), which sees vineyards rank among the most profitable crops (5,500 euros per hectare, second only to fruit at 6,700 euros per hectare), playing a key role in preserving rural areas, also thanks to the huge wine tourism industry. The supply chain boasts great biodiversity (the top 10 grape varieties account for 38% of the total, compared to 80% in Australia or 71% in France), which is a strength but also a source of fragmentation, as it is the business structure, with the top 100 companies accounting for 55% of revenue and 65% of exports. A sector, that of Italian wine, which has grown significantly worldwide, seen that in 2014 exports were just under 5 billion euros, while in 2024 they reached 8.1 billion euros with Italian wine, which twenty years ago, led in only 9 markets compared to France 41, while today, France, which weighs 33% of world wine export, dominates in 51 countries, while Italy leads in 46, with Italian wines representing 22% of global wine export turnover. This growth has partly offset the decline in domestic consumption, which has fallen by 30% since 1995 to 23 million hectoliters, while production (46 million hectoliters) has dropped by only -16% from 55 million in 1995, with half destined for export though highly concentrated, as Prosecco alone accounts for 24%. Meanwhile, the average price of bottled wine has risen to 4.4 euros per liter (+41% in 10 years), though still below France (7.8 euros per liter) and Australia (5.5 euros per liter), for example. In 2025, exports appear stable at least until July (-0.9%, compared to France -0.5%, Spain -1.8%, Chile -4.3%, Australia -8.5%, and the U.S. dramatic -29.2%, due to counter-tariffs in Canada and China, main markets). And, which sees a change in its domestic consumption, with sparkling wines (15.2%, nearly double since 2010) and still whites (39.6%, substantially stable for market share) which have overtaken reds (now 37.3%, down from 43.9% in 2010), partly because daily drinkers, who favor reds, have declined sharply, which saw in red wine the most consumed category (32%). Today consumers, explained Pantini, are more interested in quality, sustainability, and fresher, lower-alcohol wines. Italian wine faces major trends: climate change, rapid technological innovation and Ai, but also the theme of geopolitics, with emerging markets in South America, Eastern Europe, and Southeast Asia increasingly looking to Italy.
“The value of wine in Italy is tied to excellence, which is key for our country. We are not only among the top exporters by volume  - said president of the Leonardo Committee Sergio Dompè -  but also for what surrounds wine, culture, craftsmanship, and the preservation of territories linked to vineyard, which is important. The moment is delicate; entrepreneurs must never take success for granted, when you hold leadership positions, you must work even harder to maintain them. There is competition on quality, prices, and more, but we must tell institutions and the public that wine is an irreplaceable heritage that must be defended and protected in every way”.
“Today in the U.S. market  - said president of Herita Marzotto Wine Estates Gaetano Marzotto who owns Roco Winery in Oregon and imports wines directly through Herita USA - Italian wine faces a major challenge: the 15% tariffs create unfair competition from countries which don’t have them. There are many other markets to conquer, such as the Far East and China, but significant investment is needed, and Ice support is crucial. But, I am convinced we will succeed, Italian wine is strong, consumption is changing dramatically, and 2026 will be a year of “verification”, but we must grow globally, work as a system like France has done, and the Leonardo Committee, an excellence of the system, can help companies”.
“We need to open markets we haven’t reached yet - added Matteo Zoppas, president of Ice - by working as a team, in which the wine sector is strong and knows how to work well, and beyond its associations, it has Ice, Sace, and Simest on its side, as well as the Ministries of Agriculture, Made in Italy, and Foreign Affairs, and the Wine Table we held at Palazzo Chigi, which gained great importance thanks to the Prime Minister presence, and Vinitaly. Wine is not going through an easy time, as we saw at Vinitaly.Usa in Chicago. We need to set priorities for 2026 to offset what is happening in the U.S., an irreplaceable market, amid tariffs and the euro-dollar exchange rate which is penalizing us”.
The European Union will also play a key role, as recalled by Antonella Rossetti, member of the Cabinet Committee of EU Agriculture Commissioner Christophe Hansen. “Commissioner Hansen is aware of the crucial importance of wine, a sector close to our hearts. Italian wine is a sector of excellence - said Rossetti - but at the EU level it faces difficulties, with a structural decline in consumption. The Commission is monitoring the situation, but we know there is a problem, especially for red wines. We have developed the “Wine Package” and are trying to accelerate its approval by the end of December. It won’t be a definitive solution, but it aims to give countries flexibility to intervene in production balance. Some countries, like France and Germany, strongly push for reducing production potential (by uprooting vineyards, ed), while in Italy this pressure is weaker. The Commission and Commissioner want to find a balance without dismantling the production heritage. We need to reorient production to market needs without losing our heritage. There is also the issue of “no” or “reduced” alcohol, let’s see what will happen, but we must not close ourselves off to market opportunities, as consumers move toward lighter wines. Of course, there is the export issue: we know the agreement with the U.S. on 15% tariffs is not ideal, but it was necessary to provide stability, even though the wine and spirits sector is disappointed. The U.S. market is irreplaceable for wine, especially Italian wine - added Rossetti - but we must open new markets in South America, where we hope for Mercosur approval, and in Asia, such as India, but not only. Trade agreements must go hand in hand with promotion, which needs strengthening. In 2026, 205 million euros will be allocated for promoting agri-food products, including wine, and we will also launch campaigns on “Buy European” and promoting a healthy lifestyle, of which nutrition is a pillar”.
Promotion is also a key role for Vinitaly, as noted by president of Veronafiere Federico Bricolo: “at Vinitaly, we closely monitor global market trends and know the current challenges, but our outlook is not pessimistic. We believe that issues like declining consumption and tariffs affect all wine-producing countries, and Italy, unlike others, has more cards to play. We lead in wine innovation and in presenting new products to the market, just think about Prosecco, and many wineries are investing in ‘”low alcohol” wines, sparkling wines, but not only. We also have a global network of Italian restaurants like no other country, which serves as a capillary distribution channel for wine. But we must also work on the domestic market, which remains the most important, and counter misleading messages about wine and health, as well as engage younger consumers”.
“Never before have we needed to work as a team - emphasized president of Coldiretti Ettore Prandini - and create a network to better understand international markets without losing sight of established ones like the U.S. We have asked Brussels to continue working on tariffs in the coming months to recover something. The euro-dollar exchange rate is an issue, but we need a strategic vision and a network. Our agencies must understand companies needs, and in new markets we must build product culture to convey the quality of Italian wine, knowing that vineyards are being planted worldwide and “local” products will increase. Our embassies must become not only political but also economic and commercial hubs, following the French model. Our dynamism and resilience will help us - said Prandini - as will simplifying bureaucracy. For example, we are working on approving drones in agriculture in the budget law, which would greatly improve timeliness and effectiveness of vineyard treatments. There is also work with the Leonardo Committee on digitization, data analysis, and satellite use. We need to invest more in wine tourism to enhance our territories, with wineries becoming central to the food and wine experience, supported by regulations that allow more activities more easily. I also hope the next Cap will include resources dedicated to the wine sector, because the current Cmo reform does not provide for this, and we know how crucial resources are for global expansion. The world is changing fast, and Europe must be competitive by investing the right resources”.
Europe, however, as recalled by president of Nomisma and former Member of the European Parliament (Mep) Paolo De Castro (and former Minister of Agricultural Policies), “is showing some worrying tendencies. Commission president Ursula Von der Leyen has presented an ambitious multi-year budget for the post-2027 period, but despite an increase in the EU budget to 2 trillion euros, it cuts Cap resources by -25% (300 million euros). What is also concerning, and being debated in Brussels, is the creation of a Single Fund, pooling Cap, Social Cohesion, Fisheries, and more, effectively re-nationalizing resource use at a time when we need more Europe. We must work to correct this flawed budget approach”.
As many things need correcting more generally, noted president of Unione Italiana Vini (Uiv) Lamberto Frescobaldi: “Are the 500+ PDOs and PGIs too many? They are numerous, a strength and a weakness at the same time. Variety makes us interesting because it offers consumers more choices, as they are less tied to a single wine type. But we also need larger “umbrellas” to protect uniqueness. Today, we talk about uprooting vineyards, but sometimes we forget what a vineyard means: each person manages a maximum of 6-7 hectares, it is work, it is families. Be careful when saying “remove vineyards”. There are many challenges: it is true that there are tariffs - recalls Frescobaldi - but until yesterday we were worried about the Beca Commission (Beating Cancer Plan) and Envi (Health and Environment), which targeted wine, meat, and not only. These issues haven’t disappeared, but they are there. Europe, not being a federal state, has incredible internal barriers. We have the bad habit of working on urgency and often lose strategic vision”.
President of Federvini Giacomo Ponti analyzed the situation: “since August 7th, we “finally” know the issue to manage: the “15%” tariff in the U.S. At least the uncertainty we faced since March is gone. This has allowed companies to organize somewhat. We are talking about a 2 billion euros market, the U.S., which is irreplaceable. Everyone’s goal is not to raise consumer prices, which is difficult in a long supply chain, especially with tariffs hurting not only Italian companies but also U.S. businesses. We will likely see the effects of these tariffs in 2026, as current data is contradictory because companies stocked up before tariffs. For now, there are no major effects on sell-out, inflation is stable, but price lists will reflect this in 2026. There is confidence for next year if the entire supply chain does its part to avoid or minimize price increases”.
Yet companies are deeply concerned, explained Andrea Conzonato, ceo of Herita Marzotto Wine Estates, which also owns Roco Winery in Oregon and imports wines through Herita USA: “we are very worried; it is still unclear where tariffs will end up. We are still working with pre-tariff supplies. There are three major factors: the tariffs themselves, applied to EU products that account for 50% of the market, while U.S. wines make up the other half; whether U.S. producers will use this advantage to gain market share or improve price positioning; and the difficulty of absorbing increases. Distributors and retailers have said any price increase will be passed on to consumers, so only importers and producers can absorb it, but even that will show its effects in 2026. The situation is particularly concerning; we monitor it daily, but only time will tell, and we will probably know more by the next Vinitaly”.
Beyond market dynamics, climate change remains a key issue, as noted by Marcello Lunelli, vicepresident of Ferrari Fratelli Lunelli. Climate warming has pushed us to seek new areas, new territories, new wines. But the catastrophists who said certain wine regions would disappear - said Lunelli replying to Ferraro - were not wrong, they just got the timing wrong. Data shows that if we don’t change something, average temperatures will rise significantly in a few decades. We talk a lot about difficulties in the wine world, but we should talk about value, perhaps reducing quantity. It is hard but manageable. As a producer of Metodo Classico, I have a dream: to see all Italian regions producing Metodo Classico join forces abroad to present ourselves as the best producers of a noble method and a made in Italy still unknown internationally”.
Summing up, Minister of Agriculture Francesco Lollobrigida said: “the situation is difficult, but I am not pessimistic. Italy holds many records and is perceived worldwide as offering quality at a fair price, a reputation built over years in the wine sector. Data confirms growth in international markets. Italian wine has grown steadily in recent years, and we must keep that in mind. Yes, there are U.S. tariffs, but their effects can only be assessed when they trickle down; for now, we are holding up, though stockpiling plays a role. This does not mean we shouldn’t worry, we must open new markets, which obviously can’t replace the U.S. Tariffs are an issue, and we are still pushing with other nations to revise tariff policies. For now, they exist, and we must understand how they will impact supply chains and consumers. The weaker dollar also weighs on the U.S. market, but there is also declining consumption, which we must counter by increasing quality and perceived value of Italian wine. Moreover - said Lollobrigida added - we are developing a campaign with Ice on Rai and other channels to promote responsible wine consumption and showcase this product in its various forms. Wine is not just a food product, it has cultural and identity value and protects landscapes and jobs through vineyard care, as shown by Franciacorta story, where last year we hosted ministers from 40 countries and where wine has brought beauty and wealth in just a few years”. Still, talking about measures under consideration, “uprooting vineyards is not a solution; we are considering freezing new plantings instead. Uprooting means abandoning land maintenance, and not only, it is the last resort, especially since consumption trends can change again. We must network, raise technological quality, communicate better, open new markets, and strengthen trade fairs as showcases to connect buyers and producers. We also hope for the boost that could come from Unesco recognition of Italian cuisine - expected in December - of which wine is a jewel”.