Organic continues to grow, and claims a protagonist role at Sana Food and Slow Wine Fair

Italian organic agri-food, which, at this point, overcomes 10 billion euros in value between domestic consumption and export, continues to grow in any sale channel. And, it claims a protagonist role in the sector, and also in Italian and European politics, affirming with strength, also towards new Eu legislation, that “Green Deal” is not the enemy. Messages and figures arriving from Sana Food and Slow Wine Fair 2025, for the first time in synergy, at BolognaFiere (February, 23rd-25th), where also “Rivoluzione Bio” 2025 went on stage, started from data by Observatory Sana Food 2025 by Nomisma (illustrated by Silvia Zucconi and Evita Gandini, which WineNews interviewed). According to which, in 2024, food sales of organic products on domestic market grew by +5.7% compared to 2023. Mainly domestic consumption brushing against 5.2 billion euros leads the growth of the market. On the contrary, the growth in out-of-home observed by the previous data collection reduces for an overall value of 1.3 billion euros. Therefore, for a total of 6.5 billion euros. Modern distribution (3.3 billion euros, +5.3% compared to 2023) reconfirms to be the first channel for organic purchases by Italians, and weights for 6% of the total of sales linked to domestic consumption. Hyper- and supermarkets are the channels, which, in Modern Distribution, drive most organic sales overcoming 1.6 billion euros in 2024. Among the other channels, discounts are strongly expanding with organic product sales equal to 350 million euros stand out growing by +6% compared to 2023. It is worth signaling the slightly negative performance of e-commerce marking a reduction by -0.4% with sales equal to 75 million euros. Organic specialized channel overcame 1 billion euros in 2024 marking a significant increase (+9%) compared to the more restrained growth of the previous years. Also the performance of the export of Italian organic agri-food products is positive, which, in 2024, reached 3.9 billion euros with an increase by +7% compared to 2023. The growth follows the positive ongoing of the entire agri-food sector. Considering foreign markets, by Nomisma survey on 336 Italian businesses, it emerges how the main destinations for organic products are Germany, France, Scandinavia, Benelux, and the Usa. The forecasts for Italian organic on foreign markets are decisively promising: almost a third of Italian companies in food & beverage sector, which today don’t export organic, foresee to do that in the next 2-3 years. Moreover, organic-made in Italy duo confirms to be a factor of success with an optimal reputation and perception regarding foreign markets: according to 49% of food sector companies, and 64% of wine sector companies, Italian origin and the notoriety of the territory of production represent one of the main success factors of organic export on international markets. However, Italy is on the podium among producing countries of highest quality organic according to the consumer of the main foreign markets of reference (in the Usa, 45% mention exactly our country when thinking about quality organic), and the share of foreign organic users interested in Italian organic is high: it ranges from 23% of Benelux to 85% registered in Nordics. While, among Italians (8 out of 10 state to pay more attention to what they eat to feel well, keep fit, and prevent illnesses), who purchases organic chooses mainly basing on the origin of the product: 47% of consumers pay attention to Italian origin or local/km 0 (32%) of raw materials, while 34% looks for the presence of Doc/Pgi. Moreover, the interest towards bio products with sustainable packaging (20%) and 100% vegetable (20%) increases. If the categories of healthy products are considered, organic confirms to be a choice driver guiding 22% of frequent users in the purchase of vegetable products. Among the reasons linked to the purchase of the different categories of healthy products, organic confirms most guarantees in terms of health (30%), respect towards the environment (24%), and quality (12%).

On the contrary, looking at the out-of-home, according to the survey by Nomisma for Observatory Sana Food, typical and Km 0 products of the territory are“ must have” of away from home according to 9 consumers out of 10. But, on the podium, there are also organic products, whose presence turns out to be fundamental for 68% of Italians. Overall, organic consumer is more demanding and attentive regarding the choice of the local, and the offered characteristics of service. In addition to familiarity and pieces of advice by friends and relatives, organic consumer evaluates in an increasingly deep way the reputation of the chosen place to eat out (via reviews, online ranks, guides) and the hospitality/environment of the local. “The positive ongoing of organic reflects the growing awareness to make responsible food choices both for health and environment - affirms Maria Grazia Mammuccini, president FederBio - biologic unites the identity and excellence of agricultural practices which increase soil fertility, and does not use synthesis chemistry. During the years, organic went out from the niche dimension, but there is still wide space of expansion considering that many European countries have higher internal consumption than us. For this reason, it is important to continue to give impulse to the sector with activities of information, promotion, and food education starting from schools. A concrete support will arrive by Marchio biologico italiano (Italian organic trademark), which, in addition to favoring the presence of organic products in international markets, it ensures an immediate recognizability reinforcing the role of farmers, and favoring the collaboration between production, transformation, and distribution. Exactly the ability to make system needs to be pushed to favor the development of organic made in Italy supply chains at the right price by consolidating the bond between citizens and organic producers”. “Data presented today, with out-of-home organic reaching 1.3 billion euros, increasing by 5% compared to 2023, confirms the validity of the intuition to dedicate the new format of Sana Food to the experts of horeca, and specialized retail. The event proposes as hub of confrontation and development for business community, who is called to rethink the role of away from home nutrition into an increasingly more oriented optics to healthy nutrition, and environmental and social sustainability. Sana Food interprets the growing awareness of consumers regarding health and wellness together with their preference towards healthy food and drinks also in coffee shop, restaurant, canteen and overall out of home”, commented Claudia Castello, Exhibition Manager Sana. A sector, that of organic, to which also the agricultural organizations of Italy aim. “Data by the analysis about organic by Observatory Sana Food 2025 is surely positive both in terms of organic surfaces and involved operators, but we do not have to sit on one’s laurels. The sector needs to be supported and protected both in the policies and in the resources dedicated to research and innovation in order to arrive to a Sau (used agricultural surface) of 25% all over the country. I think mainly about some supply chains in which we have to implement productive shares reducing the import – said president Cia-Agricoltori Italiani Cristiano Fini - organic companies are bigger and younger compared to the conventional ones. The national average surface of organic companies (29 hectares) is almost the double of the average of Italian agricultural companies; also compared to the theme of generational change, the percentage of organic companies conducted by young people is much higher than that registered in national panorama. Even if there is still a lot to do in internal areas because there is no homogeneity on all the territory. Now, adequate answers by a renewed framework of financial support by the Eu are needed, and with the contextual full realization of what is foreseen in the National Action Plan about Organic”. An important part about the theme of organic is played also by cooperatives, which, according to Ismea data analyzed by Fedagripesca Confcooperative, see their organic turnover growing by +3.8%. The survey involved a sample of cooperatives owner of leader brands of organic sector present in Gdo, and in specialized distribution, and which invoiced, in 2023, a total of 2.7 billion euros. The most represented productive sector is wine sector, followed by fruit and vegetables, seeds, and dairies. A cooperative out of two trades products also abroad with still not significant turnover shares, but with good growth margins. Moreover, more than 86% of organic cooperatives owns an additional certification: the most widespread are those linked to Eu quality schemes (Pdo, Pgi, and Tsg), and the certifications of ownership. The attention of biologic cooperatives towards the sustainability of production is very high: more than 75% implement renewable energies, of these over 92% are also energy producer. Among the cooperative which took part in the survey, the reasons that should stimulate organic companies to confer into a cooperative their own production are attributable to supply chains logics such as a fair and prompt remuneration to members (25%), agreements along the supply chain which give the certainty of the price (24%), organization of demand and offer with subsequent facility of product conferment (28%), and continuous service delivery of technical assistance (15%). “The fragmentation of Italian agricultural sector - commented Francesco Torriani, president Organic sector Confcooperative, to which most analyzed companies adhere - is a criticality which can be dealt throughout the aggregation between producers putting together the entire supply chain from the production up to the trade of the end product, improving, consequently, the efficiency and value distribution along the supply chain to the advantage of producer and end consumer. Moreover, the aggregation allows to make investments in innovation, and to offer valuable services such as certification and digitization allowing to pursue the aim of productivity and distinctiveness, a strategic duo for the future of organic agriculture”. But, bio is successful also among smaller producers. “The purchases of organic products in farmers markets grow which are gradually affirming as a new sale channel with organic products which are today present in a farmers market out of two”, affirms Coldiretti basing on data by a survey conducted by Ismea together with Coldiretti Bio and Campagna Amica spread at Sana Food. Among who attends farmers market, the direct purchase by the producer became, for this reason, the main provision channel of organic products in front of supermarkets and specialized shops. A trend pushed forward by the fact that the “physical” presence of farmers represents a quality and authenticity guarantee of what one brings in the shopping bag. Not casually, if consumers are asked what are the main criteria of choice at the market stall where one can purchase organic, it emerges that the most frequent reason indicated at the first place is trust in producer, and in agricultural farm overall, according to Ismea survey. Almost a third of organic products is represented by fruit and vegetables driving the top five of the most popular specialties in front of fresh pasta, and eggs, cheese, oil, and honey. Today, the value of the shopping of organic products made in farmers and local markets amounts to almost 150 million euros, according to Ismea. The classification of the regions with the highest percentage of organic producers in farmers market on the total sees South Tyrol (38%) leading, in front of Calabria (29%), and Campania (27%). Friuli-Venezia Giulia (26%), Emilia Romagna (25%), and Tuscany (24%) follow. “The results of the survey clearly show that the policies of organic development in Italy, and in Europe have to advance in a coordinate way with food local policies – explains Maria Letizia Gardoni, presidente Coldiretti Bio – organic has to be back to give full centrality to the figure of farmer, and to his/her role of innovator again both in productive techniques, and in trade dynamics of the supply chain by relaunching the direct bond between farmer and consumer also in organic as an essential element for a development of territories and communities”. Italy, recalls Coldiretti, has now the Eu leadership for organic thanks to 84,000 agricultural companies which are active on the national territory, more than the double compared to Germany, and a third more than France. Organic agriculture arrived to cover 2.5 million of hectares (+4.5% in 2023 compared to 2022) representing a hectare out of five of national agricultural surface, at this point very close to the target of 25% to reach by 2030 established by the European Strategy Farm to Form with 6 regions which have even overcame it: Tuscany 37.5%, Calabria 36.5%, Sicily 30,7%, the Marche 28.2%, Basilicata 27.6%, and Lazio 27%. Yet, if all agree about the importance of organic and sustainability, many of the same associations of category felt relieved when the new Eu legislation with a new Agriculture Commission, headed by Luxembourger Christophe Hansen, considered to be less ideologized on green front compared to the past one, made a sort of step backward about the discussed “Green Deal”. Which, however, “is not the enemy”, said to a voice, by Slow Wine Fair and Sana Food, Legambiente, FederBio, and Slow Food Italia. “The real danger is the climate crisis with is increasingly more dramatic consequences on the territories, productions, and food safety. The answer to this emergency can’t do a step backward compared to environmental policies, but a decisive advancement towards agroecology” (explained here, to WineNews, from its maximum “theorist” Miguel Altieri, professor at the University of California of Berkeley, and coordinator of the Program of sustainable agriculture of the Un), is the message of synthesis of the debate between Barbara Nappini, president Slow Food Italia, Maria Grazia Mammuccini, president FederBio, and Angelo Gentili, responsible of agriculture Legambiente. According to them, it is fundamental to “debunk the narrative seeing “Green Deal” as an obstacle for agricultural world, and reaffirm that the real challenge is conjugating environmental, social, and economical sustainability ensuring adequate tools to farmers in order to cope with ecologic transition”. A debate, which, as said, is inserted in a context of great ferment for the future of European agriculture. “The European Commission has recently presented the new schedule for the sector – recall the three organizations – aiming on simplification, digitization, and generational change. However, the central crux remains the balance of the Common Agricultural Policy (Pac). If, one the one hand, the Commission recognizes the strategic role of agriculture in the current geopolitical context, on the other hand, uncertainties about available economic resources to support the sector in a concretely green key remain. An example of this contradiction emerges from the fact that Europe, despite confirming the strategic value of organic agriculture as a tool to favor the ecologic transition of agricultural and food systems, after having withdrawn the proposal to half the implementation of pesticides by 2030, it is starting paths which legitimize the implementation of pesticides in absence of concrete alternatives. Unfortunately, this approach seems to go against the same European strategies From farm to fork and Biodiversity 2030, which, on the contrary, should aim on sustainable agricultural practices such as organic agriculture, and the adoption of innovative solutions which reduce environmental impact and promote ecologic transition”. “We notice contrasting signals - said Maria Grazia Mammuccini, presidente FederBio - arriving from the European Commission. On the one hand, “Visione per l’agricoltura e l’alimentazione” (“Vision for Agriculture and Food”), published in these days, which confirms that organic agriculture represents a strategic choice also for the future, for the capacity to attract young farmers, and favor generational change, capable of carrying out ecosystem services in the interest of the community, and which sees a growth in the market of organic products. On the other hand, it seems to slow down in terms of investments and support to the regulations which should support this path: despite affirming the aim to accelerate towards the products for organic control, it does not deal in an adequate way the necessity to reduce synthetic pesticides to prevent environmental and social consequences deriving from their implementation. Together with Legambiente and Slow Food, we are committed for a while in explaining how “Green Deal” and organic agriculture are unique opportunities to radically transform the agri-food model, and make it sustainable from an environmental, ethical, and productive point of view for supply chains, and resilient in the capacity to contrast the effects of climate change, and the loss of biodiversity. We hope that the undertaken virtuous path restarts without hesitations, and that all necessary financial, economic and cultural tools will be placed. We can’t afford to loose time anymore. We have to ensure a future of agriculture based on healthy and fair principles under the environmental, social, and economic profile”. “We have to act now to contrast climate crisis, rebuild a harmonic relation with nature, reactivate soil fertility, produce protecting biodiversity, breed respecting animals. These are the urgencies. Our food system doesn’t protect its foundation, i.e. the earth of those people working it, destroys little-scale farmers who respect the environment and traditions, and generates intolerable wastes: almost a third of food produced globally. Who produces our food following agroecological practices has to be supported, and all the others must be helped to undertake virtuous paths. It is talked about the enormous European grants, but one forgets that money deriving from Pacs continue to go to few companies: 80% of financing goes to 20% of agricultural entrepreneurs, and awards intensive industrial agriculture. Unfortunately, the program presented by the European Commission “Visione per l’agricoltura e l’alimentazione” (“Vision for Agriculture and Food”) remains anchored to an obsolete model favoring the increase of production, and does not aim decisively to sustainability of food systems, to the respect of environment, and to social equity. A urgent ecological and social transition is needed which delivers our agriculture to the future”, underlined Barbara Nappini, president Slow Food Italia. Angelo Gentili, responsible of agriculture Legambiente, put the accent on the necessity not to fall into the error to identify the wrong target: “to depict “Green Deal” as an obstacle for farmers is a dangerous and misleading operation. The real threat is climate crisis which is testing agricultural production with increasingly more frequent extreme events, and enormous damages for companies. The answer to this crisis can’t be a return to intensive practices of the past, but a decisive investment in agroecology. We have to support farmers in the transition towards sustainable productive models by offering adequate economic incentives, and promoting practices which reduce environmental impact. Agroecology is the key to conjugate productivity and protection of the territory. We can’t afford to stop the change. Instead, we have to make sure that it is fair, that it ensures the future of agriculture, and of our planet”.