Sicilian harvest 2024: vineyards react well to drought, but there is an average drop of 20%

Drought and climatic instability, but also intelligence, and know-how: here are the characteristics of Sicilian harvest 2024, presented in preview, at “Sicilia En Primeur” 2025, the most important itinerant showcase of Sicilian wine, organized by Assovini Sicilia, in the last days, at Castello dei Conti, the fortress which, from above, dominates the Baroque city of Modica. According to the technical table of the association, the vintage was characterized by many difficulties mainly linked to water crisis which affected the region already since winter. The experience and the constant research of Sicilian vine growers, who, since three millennia, produce wine in a kaleidoscopic island also regarding climate, has allowed to find effective answers and agronomic techniques. The harvest of the island – the longest in Italy with 100 days of harvest from West to East – won’t be recalled for the quantity estimated at -20% compared to the average, but, rather, for the quality and resilience of some native and allochthonous vineyards. According to Consorzio di Tutela Vini Doc Sicilia, the situation is heterogeneous: at North-East, the quantity of harvested grape is on the average, while, at West, the drop is higher. If the quantity leaves producers little satisfied, the quality of grapes is unquestionable, particularly for some varieties symbol of Sicily such as Nero d’Avola, Grillo, and Frappato. Harvest closed at the end of October on Etna, but began in mid July in the areas of Western Sicily with about fifteen days in advance.
Leaving from the West, at North-West from Palermo, Doc Monreale – with its vineyards located at a height ranging from 300 to 600 meters above sea level – registered an estimated drop of 15% compared to the average, but with resistant, perfectly healthy and high-quality grapes such as Perricone, Grillo, Catarratto, and Syrah. In extreme West, Consorzio per la Tutela del Vino Marsala Doc closed with an average loss of 30%. Also here, quality doesn’t miss: Grillo, Catarratto, and Insolia reached a perfect maturation. Pantelleria – the island, which is closest to Africa with 406 vineyard hectares, and 322 vine growers – registered, in advance of a week, a productive drop of 40% compared to the average, and a harvest of healthy and mature grapes, characterized by a good quality.
Continuing to South-East, the balance for the areas of Docg Cerasuolo di Vittoria results to be positive, in the areas of Ragusa. 2024 confirms as a high quality vintage with a light drop in production. Frappato and Nero d’Avola are two particularly adapt varieties to areas characterized by scarce rainfall. In the years, thanks to the work of vine growers, the capacity of resilience increased in the overcoming of dry vintages. Part of the success is also due to important thermal excursion between night and day, to thermal breezes of which the province enjoy, and to the particularly conformity of calcareous ground, capable of storing humidity which slowly releases to plants.
Going up to North-East, in the area of Messina – the only province boasting three Docs between dry land and Eolie Islands: Faro, Malvasia from Lipari, and Mamertino – August and September rainfalls, and the presence of green and woods in the area of Nebrodi mitigated the drop in production (30% on average) favoring the recovery of water crisis. Native vineyards reacted well to drought, among these Nocera, Nerello Mascalese, and Nerello Cappuccio. Projected in Tirreno Sea, Eolian archipelago confirms the general data of productive drop f about 25%, but also here a great quality of maturation.
In the end, Etna, which closes the harvest: Consorzio Etna Doc announced a +70% compared to 2023, leaving, in this way, behind the thin -42% compared to previous harvest. Contrary to the other provinces of the island, since July, light and continuous rainfalls occurred which allowed to reestablish water balance of plants. Southern slope coped with more complex climatic conditions, compensated by the combination of effective agronomic practices, and rainfalls of end summer. On eastern slope, the particular microclimate – fresh and refreshed by rainfalls – contributed to a balanced maturation. Northern slope was more lucky with favorable climatic conditions which allowed a slow and uniform maturation, and a balanced production, confirming Etna as a terroir linked to the different characteristics of Districts.
Also this year, the diversity of territories linked to vineyards characterizing them results to be increasingly more defined, where both white and red wines demonstrate good abilities of aging, mainly where altitude and soils enhance acidity. So, here, according to technicians, intense white and aromatic wines, or red wines characterized by a complex organoleptic profile, starting from Grillo of North-West, which reached an alcoholic content of almost two grades more compared to the average. Anyway, Frappato and Nero d’Avola of South-East are aromatic despite the strong solar radiation, and lack of water. At North-East, red wines are fresh with a good complexity and structure, and white wines are perfumed, Malvasia heading, capable of complexity, persistence, and long aging. In the end, on Etna, Carricante showed a good adaptability contributing to the production of vibrant white wines, while red wines, particularly Nerello Mascalese, demonstrated character.
From Castello dei Conti, from over 300 presented labels which explored any angle of Sicily – from Etna to Pantelleria, from Marsala to Vittoria, from Monreale to Menfi, from Agrigento to Lipari – in any possible wine declination thanks to the unique wine richness of the region, here the best tastings of WineNews, present at edition No. 21 of “Sicilia en Primeur”:

Sicilia Pas Dosé Nero D’Avola 2019 by Principi di Butera
With a persistent bubble, it smells of white flowers and candy blackberry with hints of herbs; the sip is firm and tart, with a savory, citrusy finish.

Sicily Salealto 2022 by Cusumano
Scents of peach and yellow melon, hawthorn and boxwood flowers and hints of chalk, joined by vanilla in the mouth; the sip is full, distinctly acidic and mineral.

Menfi Sauvignon Blanc Urra di Mare 2024 by Mandrarossa
Aromas of ripe pear, acacia flowers, savory and then boxwood: a nose as round and full as the sip, fresh and savory in its flavors of herbs and citrus.

Terre Siciliane Porticello 2024 by Tenuta di Castellaro
With intense aromatics on the nose and sustained rocky substance, it has a round and savory sip that closes on sweet floral and spicy notes.

Alcamo Catarratto Vigne Casali 2024 by Rapitalà
Floral - hawthorn, elderflower, iris and violet - and spicy, it starts out sweet but also deep, with hints of flint; textural and flowing in the mouth thanks to citrusy acidity.

Sicily Grillo Mozia 2024 by Tasca d’Almerita
Juicy white and yellow-fleshed fruit, iodine, cedar, rock, almond and Japanese medlar blossom on the nose, with the recognizable brackish note in the mouth, where it lingers long, citrusy and floral.

Sicily Grillo Lalùci 2024 by Christ of Campobello
Always bright this Grillo, perfumed with Mediterranean scrub, sweet spices and yellow fruit. Textural and almondy in the mouth, with citrusy acidity and spicy warmth.

Terre Siciliane Zibibbo 2023 by Cos
Beeswax, chamomile, broom flowers, ginger, flint and basil: it has intense yellow hues, both in color and nose, that anticipate a textural, grippy, balsamic and citrusy sip.

Etna Bianco Contrada Volpare Frontebosco 2023 by Maugeri
Intense and broad, it smells of melon and yellow peach, cedar, orange blossom and vanilla, while in the mouth it is long and taut, broad and smooth, in a pleasant contrast to the salt, flower and citrus flavors.

Etna Bianco Contrada Calderare 2023 by Cottanera
A buttery soft note is added to the primary aromas, which transforms into minerality and tension in the mouth, with a slight grip and a closure on notes of yellow citrus peel.

Etna Bianco Contrada Cavaliere 2023 by Benanti
Mineral in character, it has intense aromas of candied citron and Mediterranean scrub, while the sip is persistent and fresh, closing on notes of broom flowers and yellow grapefruit.

Sicilia Rosato 2024 by Serra Ferdinandea
Scents of camellia and rose, hawthorn and Japanese medlar with lemon zest; on the palate there is savory grip, some sweetness and closing on small red candy fruits.

Etna Rosato 2024 by Barone di Villagrande
Berries and floral notes, vanilla and chalk: a certain elegant shagginess anticipates a round and accomplished sip, fresh and citrusy, and with crisp persistence.

Red Wine Vitrarolo 2024 by Cantine Fina
A relic vine with a dark, impenetrable color, this is an ematic wine that smells of violets and blackberries, rhubarb and underbrush, with an intense, fruity sip and a textural, slightly savory grip.

Terre Siciliane Orisi O 2021 by Santa Tresa
A relic varietal with a spicy character, smelling of black cherry under spirits, cocoa and notes of incense; the sip is central, warm and peppery, slightly bitter with a long fruity finish.

Vittoria Frappato 2023 by Arianna Occhipinti
A Frappato with juicy, sanguine flesh, scented with small berries and white flowers that are also found on the sip, with a savory grip and a long, textural, acidic plug.

Monreale Perricone 2023 by Alessandro di Camporeale
A wine with purple tones of fruit and flowers, with hints of licorice and medicinal herbs; the sip is tight and central, but very persistent and flowing, to a clean, vegetal finish.

Sicilia Nero d’Avola Passo delle Mule 2023 by Duca di Salaparuta
A lively, pulpy and intense wine with aromas of pomegranate, cherry, violet and vanilla; flows well in the mouth and lingers gracefully, leaving flavors of candy blackberry and herbs.

Sicily Nero d’Avola Vigna Guarnaschelli 2022 by Feudo Maccari
Distinctly floral, this is a clear and fresh wine; on the nose camellia and rose, wisteria and jasmine, then strawberry and red currant; in the mouth it does not fade, but persists savory and flowing.

Sicily Rosso Cantodoro 2023 by Feudo Arancio
Cherry and tomato leaf, wilted flowers and black pepper on the nose, while on the sip it is sweet and warm, textural and grippy, with a fruity and vegetal, slightly almondy finish.

Etna Rosso Rampante 2021 by Pietradolce
Jammy red fruit, spice and hints of underbrush anticipate a layered and elegant, textural but fresh sip that closes on sweet notes of plum and balsamic notes of juniper berries.

Etna Rosso San Lorenzo 2022 by Girolamo Russo
A certainty in terms of elegance and clarity: small ripe red fruits, wilted roses and orange peel, it is fleshy in the mouth and grippy, but always with lightness and floral grace.

Terre Siciliane Moscato Passito Êra by Baglio di Pianetto
Apricot, confit lemon, toasted almond, fig leaf and flowers in syrup anticipate a sweet but not soft, savory and grippy sip with a long savory persistence.

Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé 2022 by Donnafugata
Chestnut honey, pine nuts, dehydrated apricots and figs, candied citron and more for this celebrated wine with a velvety, persistent and complex sip that is refreshed with balsamic and resinous notes.