Wine, art, and today’s world, local roots and global vision with Monteleone21 by Masi

“Wine is at the heart of our way of life, our history, our religion, and our culture, just as it is at the heart of Monteleone21. A new addition to our headquarters, theater for new activities and more modern business approaches, but also a place of communion with our producer friends from Valpolicella, Veneto, and all of Italy”. In this way, Sandro Boscaini, president of Masi Agricola, a historic company and a leading brand of the Valpolicella Classica, during the recent inauguration of the new experiential hub Monteleone21, an architecturally significant structure with a circular core, where, in the production area - represented by the “fruttaio”, which showcases the grape drying technique with extraordinary dimensions: 12 meters high, 30 meters deep, and a 300-square-meter footprint) - a wine shop featuring wines from other producers (especially those of the Famiglie Storiche - Historic Families), a restaurant, and spaces for cultural and wine tourism activities are located next to them.
“Monteleone21 is the latest piece which brings a third-millennium expression to the many achievements of Masi over its 250-year history - continued Boscaini - a multifunctional space that goes beyond production facilities and far exceeds the ordinary concept of a visitable winery, considering that wine culture is the starting point for discovering the territory and its peculiarities. In this way, we expand and modernize our production activities, management functions, and wine experience sites, all in the spirit of hospitality and conviviality”.
“Producing quality wines is no longer enough - underlined Federico Girotto, Ceo of Masi Agricola. The markets are undergoing major changes due to both temporary and permanent factors, and our sector must evolve accordingly. We have always believed that wine should be a symbol, a tool for enhancing a territory in its landscape, historical, and cultural dimensions. And, we are fortunate because the Masi brand is strong, just like Valpolicella and Venezie. Monteleone21 is certainly the home of Masi, but it also aims to be an ideal gateway to our territories, supporting wine tourism with an offering and service backed by the professional expertise for which our company is widely recognized”.
And, also the Minister of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation, Antonio Tajani, in his video message - after having praised the construction of Monteleone21 as a “bold initiative which enriches a splendid territory and highlights the drive for innovation among Italy’s finest excellences” - also emphasized that “enhancing local excellence means creating jobs, well-being, and attracting tourism, and - he continued - for this reason, I support the candidacy of the Valpolicella grape drying technique for Unesco heritage status. I am confident that Monteleone21 will become a landmark, a calling card for Verona, the Veneto region, and Italy”.
The conviction that wine is a product of culture and territory has always been central to Masi. Nearly half a century ago, the company created the Premio Masi, and later anchored this vision to its Dna through the Fondazione Masi. “It was grounded 40 years ago - recalled Sandro Boscaini - also by opening the doors of Serego Alighieri to consumers, welcoming thousands of guests and sharing the beauty, quality, and uniqueness of our land, an absolute preview for the Veneto region, and beyond, at a time when the term wine tourism hadn’t even been coined”.
It is within this tradition that the idea of Monteleone21 arose - joining the eight other locations of the Masi Wine Experience project - at a time when the current economic challenges were still unforeseeable. The project faced many obstacles, starting with Covid, which delayed construction, prevented a groundbreaking celebration, and triggered price increases that impacted the overall cost of the structure, and, then, bureaucratic and operational hurdles followed. The roughly three-year delay in completion, however, allowed the original design by architect Vittorio Cecchini to be updated to meet new needs, thanks to the Venetian studio of architect Giovanna Mar, who also supervised the construction. The architecture of the new “Home of Amarone Masi”, named after the Monteleone hill on which it stands, evokes the dry-stone walls which have supported vineyard terraces for centuries, marogne, built through the ancient art of stone extraction and craftsmanship in Valpolicella. At the heart of the building, there is the “agorà”, a circular plaza with a spectacular coffered concrete ceiling featuring intersecting curved lines, echoed in the grand staircases leading to the rooftop - which will be covered by vineyards - and down to the entrance of the fruttaio. Spanning over 1,000 square meters, the agorà is designed as a place of gathering, conviviality, discovery, and celebration of wine. The fruttaio, dubbed the “Cathedral of Amarone”, is a monumental space intended to offer the aromas of drying grapes during autumn and winter. It also serves as a venue for the “creative ferment” of renowned artists, in a naturally evocative setting, explains Masi. For the opening of Monteleone21, the fruttaio hosts “The Soul of Amarone”, an installation by acclaimed Venetian artist Fabrizio Plessi, where elements from his artistic journey - water, fire, lava, and wind - are joined by another ancestral force: wine. “To me, Amarone is the symbol of true wine, the one I deeply love. Wine never stains the soul, but it elevates it: the soul lives alongside wine. I love movement and monumentality, and in this work, water and wine converse as essential elements, always reminding us that the grape is our origin”, said Plessi. The installation will remain open to the public for one year. Throughout his long career, Plessi has pioneered innovative artistic experiments, exhibited in major museums worldwide, explored the relationship between technology, nature, and human perception, and received countless accolades. In October, he will also be awarded the Premio Masi Civiltà Veneta.
But, the inauguration of Monteleone21 was also an opportunity to put “wine at the center” of reflections from distinguished guests on the state of the industry - stimulated by Sebastiano Barisoni, journalist and deputy editor of Il Sole 24 Ore - the discussion touched on consumer engagement, wine tourism, and the potential impact of the Milan-Cortina Olympics on territorial promotion. In light of tariffs, declining wine consumption, and a growing preference for other alcoholic beverages and spirits, it is crucial to diversify a winery’s offering by linking it to territory and culture, just as Masi thought and did with Monteleone21. In the last semester, exports to the U.S - as Barison underlined - have seen a 61 million euros revenue drop, as many producers absorbed tariffs rather than pass them on to distributors, fearing removal from store shelves. Duties have created additional competition: while Italy and other EU countries face a 15% tariff, others like Chile and Argentina are taxed at only 10%, giving them an advantage, as U.S. wine itself. Market diversification, seen as a way to overcome the current downturn, is necessary but challenging if viewed as a replacement for the U.S. Market.
“Consumption data is alarming - said Giorgio Del Grosso, Head statistics at Oiv - International Organisation of Vine and Wine - last year, global wine consumption was 216 million hectoliters, the lowest in 60–65 years, even though the number of consuming countries was the half of today. The U.S. remains the world’s largest market, with 35 million hectoliters, accounting for 18-19% of global consumption, and, in a context of geopolitical instability, economic uncertainty, and trade tensions, export diversification is the path to be undertaken, but the U.S. market is irreplaceable. Making things easier, Del Grosso identified three market groups. Those of great European producers, whose consumption has declined since the 1970s, losing 2-3% annually, passing from 100 liters per capita to 40 today (for those over 16). The second group, led by the U.S., includes major Southern Hemisphere countries - Chile, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand - and also the UK, which helped offset the decline of traditional markets until 2018–2020, when post-Covid, the global supply chain crisis and energy crisis triggered an inflationary spiral. The third group, mainly in Asia, Latin America, and Africa, offers hope. “I think about South Korea which has seen consumption growing for 10–15 years; Japan still has untapped potential; and China, since early 2025, appears to be increasing imports again after its 2017–2018 economic slowdown which made it move back to position No. 5. And, still, India also has enormous potential, as Mexico and Colombia, all countries with large populations”.
The strongest impact of tariffs regards medium and lower-priced wines, which have already been struggling for some years and represent 80% of Italian wines exported to the US. “This situation is exacerbated by current trade tensions - underlined Giacomo Ponti, president of Federvini - though sparkling wines, especially Prosecco, which has been booming for years, and the ultra-premium segment are spared. Companies are trying to absorb tariffs as much as possible without raising prices, and since most of our products can’t be produced in the US, we are requesting an exemption. The relevant ministries and diplomatic channels are working on this, and we’ll see what happens in the upcoming months”. However, there is another current issue to face: the exchange rate effect. “The appreciation of the dollar against the euro is an exogenous factor beyond the control of companies - continued Ponti - some analysts estimate the exchange rate could reach 1.25 (on September, 22nd, it was 1.18 dollars per euro): we hope this won’t happen, because it’s impossible to absorb both tariffs and exchange rate effects without raising consumer prices. The only hope is to spread the burden across the 3-4 steps of the US market’s three-tier system”. Regarding countermeasures, when asked by Barisoni, Ponti recalled the working group chaired by Piero Mastroberardino, vicepresident of Federvini, “which is studying possible responses, including educational campaigns and invitation to consumption. We have strong brands and large market shares in the US, where Italian products are highly appreciated, and there is a significant Italian-American presence among chefs and Italian restaurants, who are the best ambassadors for our wine and Italian taste. So we hope the US market will respond as it has in the past. Even if prices have to rise, all companies will fiercely defend their market positions. Let me be clear: the Mercosur agreement is positive and should be analyzed in detail, but there is no market as important as the US in terms of volume, income, and citizens who love Italian products and wine. If such a market existed, it would already be controlled”.
“In a time of uncertainty and difficulty, it is essential for companies to add perceivable value to their products - said Raffaele Boscaini, marketing director of Masi Agricola and president of Confindustria Veneto - products with uniqueness and distinctiveness will be less affected by tariffs, and this applies to all products, including wine. It is true that there is no market that can replace the US, but we shouldn’t think it will disappear. Beyond tariffs and unfavorable exchange rates, high energy costs, difficulties in sourcing some raw materials and their prices, lack of investment, and bureaucracy make us less competitive than our European colleagues. Last but not least, the fragmentation of our companies, even in wine and food. This is a critical point: today, the beauty, quality, and craftsmanship of made in Italy are no longer enough. We need entrepreneurial skills and business schools to not only make excellent products but also communicate them well, promote them, and have access to finance and structures”.
Regarding health-related attacks on wine, while always advocating moderate consumption, Luciano Ferraro, deputy editor of “Corriere della Sera” and industry expert, highlighted two groups which demonize wine. “Some doctors - he illustrated - such as a well-known science communicator who, coinciding with the release of her book, claimed that even a small amount of wine burns the brain only to contradict herself with her own behavior on Instagram. Then, there is a segment of the political community in non-producing EU countries, which takes a punitive stance against wine producers, especially those in Southern Europe and the Mediterranean, including us, up to the point of health warning labels. These are challenges that wine producers, including Italians, must face: we can’t ignore the collective demand for health in the society. There is good news, perhaps even a turning point, from the US, where the report claiming even small amounts of wine are harmful has been withdrawn. It will be replaced by new dietary guidelines for Americans, which state that small amounts of wine can be beneficial. Europe will also have to consider this wellness trend: some consortia are already working to reduce alcohol content, and even in Valpolicella, with Amarone and not only, there is a greater focus on freshness”. At the top of the list for business diversification, there is wine tourism, a strategic segment for wine which is also at a turning point. “Global data shows a steady increase in interest in this asset - confirmed Roberta Garibaldi, professor of management and tourism marketing at the University of Bergamo, and author of the “Report on Italian Food and Wine Tourism” and the White Paper on Food and Wine Tourism Professions - everywhere, the top preferences for extra-European, European, and Italian tourists are to experience natural and open spaces, as well as food and wine experiences. There is great growth potential, with over 70% of Italians wanting to participate in production activities, with wine at the first place. Currently, figures are stable: economic crises, wars, and other difficulties are impacting further growth, and we’ll see how the resolution of these external factors will affect the future. In the White Paper on Food and Wine Tourism Professions, presented in late July with the main industry associations in Italy, we outlined roles, skills, and training paths for hospitality managers in wineries, tour staff, as well as food and wine tourism consultants and destination product managers. Professionalization is crucial today because the tourism world is changing deeply. Artificial intelligence is revolutionizing the customer journey, i.e. the planning of tourist trips. Currently, about 15% of Italians use Ai for this purpose, a percentage destined to grow, making it necessary to “be readable” by Ai. Wineries, especially small ones, are still not digitalized enough to face this challenge. For example, the number of reviews as points of interest is still low, so it is necessary to guide all wineries toward new tourism dynamics, which requires professionalization of the tourism side. While large companies can afford specialized staff, smaller ones may benefit from a food and wine tourism consultant, either freelance or provided on demand by consortia, wine routes, or tourist destinations”.
However, there are many other critical issues, from the lack of a national strategic plan to the issue of transportation in rural areas. “The Milan-Cortina 2026 Olympics will bring enormous visibility to the affected areas, economic resources, and create value - underlined Emanuela de Zanna, president of the Belluno Dolomiti Dmo Foundation - leaving an important legacy, especially culturally, but also in terms of infrastructure development and improved mobility, which will facilitate tourism even in currently hard-to-reach areas. Regarding wine and gastronomy, in the vast area involved in these “spread” Olympics, efforts are underway to highlight not only the sporting and natural aspects but also the cultural and food and wine heritage, which is what tourists now seek, moving beyond experiential tourism toward transformative tourism, which leads to well-being and new habits”. In this context, and with reference to tourism, the Veneto Region has played its part “by creating a regional strategic tourism plan that also includes a specific chapter on agriculture. I strongly believe in the agriculture-tourism combination - underlined Federico Caner, regional minister for Tourism, Agriculture, and Foreign Trade of Veneto - we were the first to combine the two sectors, even facing skepticism from Minister Lollobrigida, but now Piedmont is following our path. Veneto is Italy’s leading tourist region with 73 million visitors, and, probably, also the leader in agriculture with 8 billion euros, and these are two sectors which can’t be delocalized”.