At Trentodoc Festival, mountain bubbles tell their story as climate change also transforms the table

The effects of climate change are not only visible in the environment, particularly in agriculture and vineyards, but also at the dinner table, where not only the foods we eat are changing, but so are our eating habits. It is a revolution whose effects are evident. While, on the one hand, we are bringing more vegetables and less meat to the table, along with local and seasonal ingredients, fresh, nutritious, sustainable, and health-conscious foods; on the other hand, wine, whose vineyards are moving higher and higher up the slopes and whose harvest is taking place earlier and earlier, does not lose its symbolic value as a catalyst for conviviality and togetherness, nor its status as the most faithful companion of the Italian table. However, climate is changing the types of wine we drink and the occasions on which wine is consumed. More white wines and sparkling wines, which are fresh and light due to their lower alcohol content; red wines served at a lower temperature; wines that are increasingly easy to drink and reflect a distinct identity; people enjoy drinking more in the evening, when temperatures drop during these increasingly long summers, than at other times of the day, and prefer cooler settings to the record-breaking heat of the cities, all in the name of well-being. Just to give a few examples. Determining whether the “climatarian table” is fantasy or reality, and, consequently, whether a new “concept of wine” is also gaining ground to accompany it (as WineNews will explore in a video coming soon online), is one of the focal points of the “Trentodoc Festival”, scheduled from today through September 27 in Trento - promoted by the Autonomous Province of Trento in partnership with Trentino Marketing and the Trentodoc Institute, in collaboration with the “Corriere della Sera”, with deputy editor Luciano Ferrano serving as artistic director . and featuring “Trentodoc in Cantina”, a widespread event featuring 125 experiences in the very places where the quintessential mountain sparkling wines take shape: the sparkling wine houses of the Istituto Trentodoc, which, under the leadership of Stefano Fambri, brings together 73 of them.
A Trentodoc whose numbers reflect stability, with 2.2 million bottles sold in 2025, featuring vintage and reserve wines as standout products, and revenue of 180 million euros, with Italy as the main market and a 15% export share. But they also tell the story of Trentodoc’s natural response to climate change: produced in vineyards at altitudes exceeding 1,000 meters, it preserves the grapes’ natural acidity and keeps sugar levels in check. Made primarily from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, these grapes typically have high acidity and low potential alcohol content, with an aromatic profile shaped by the significant temperature variation between day and night.
In the lineup for the “Trentodoc Festival” - chefs and restaurateurs such as Alessandro Gilmozzi (El Molin restaurant, Cavalese, one Michelin star) and Francesco Sodano (Famiglia Rana, Oppeano, two Michelin stars), Giulia Caffiero (Restaurant Manager at Geranium, Copenhagen, three Michelin stars) and Niccolò Palumbo (Paca Tenuta Ceri, Prato, one Michelin star), sommeliers ranging from Roberto Anesi to Cristian Maitan, from Simone Loguercio to Ilaria Lorini, and entrepreneurs such as Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga (Tenuta San Leonardo), Raffaele Boscaini (Masi Agricola), Enrico Zanoni (Cavit), Matteo and Camilla Lunelli (Lunelli Group), Carlo Moser (Moser), Giampiero Bertolini (Biondi-Santi), Salvino Benanti (Benanti), Augusta Bargilli, Sergio Moser (Mach Foundation), Rossana Gaja (Gaja), and Rodolfo Maralli (Banfi), Masters of Wine Cristina Mercuri and Essi Avellan, wine writer Robert Camuto, and VIPs such as Noemi, Samuel Romano, Walter Veltroni, Paolo Mereghetti, Francesca Fialdini, and Andrea Pennacchi -“Trentodoc in Cantina” is back, the widespread event organized by the Trentodoc Institute that takes enthusiasts, experts, and the curious to the places where mountain sparkling wines take shape. Amid pergolas, aging caves, historic cellars, and Alpine vistas, visitors can get an up-close look at the Trentino Metodo Classico and the deep connection that binds Trentodoc to the region where it is produced. The program features 125 events at sparkling wine producers, where guests can choose from a variety of unique settings, all united by a shared desire to showcase mountain sparkling wines in an authentic, accessible, and contemporary way. The wineries will host a series of tastings dedicated to extended aging and old vintages, meetings with producers and winemakers, and disgorgement demonstrations. There will be plenty of opportunities for sharing and fun: in addition to the customary pairing of Trentodoc with gastronomy, there will be outdoor breakfasts and picnics, hikes through the vineyards, e-bike tours, as well as “soft clubbing,” tastings with “sound sommeliers,” and sensory workshops focused on olfactory memory. From Villa Corniole to Casa Pisoni, from Ress to Elio Endrizzi Viticoltori, from Cantina di Riva to Casa del Vino della Vallagarina, from Cantina Rotaliana (Cavit) to Pedrotti Spumanti, Endrizzi, Rechof and Rotari (Mezzacorona Group), from Ferrari Trento to Cesarini Sforza Spumanti (Cavit), from Moncalisse to Cantina Mori Colli Zugna (Cavit), from De Vigili to Maso Poli, from Maso Nero, Cantina Rovere della Luna (Cavit), Conti Bossi Fedrigotti and Tonini Viticoltori in Isera to Viticoltori in Avio (Cavit), from the Edmund Mach Foundation to Bellaveder, from Metius to Man Spumanti, Cantina Aldeno (Cavit) and Cantina Sociale di Trento (Cavit), from Letrari to Valentini di Weinfeld, from Cantina Toblino (Cavit) to Tenuta Gottardi, from Monfort to Revì, from Maso Martis to Borgo dei Posseri, from Cembra Cantina di Montagna to Madonna delle Vittorie, from Moncalisse to Terre del Lagorai, from Mas dei Chini to Altemasi (Cavit), from Moser Trento to Cantina Salizzoni, all the way to Cantina Salim, the leading wineries.
Meanwhile, Trentodoc is once again the undisputed champion of the “world championships of sparkling wines” according to wine critic Tom Stevenson, and the most award-winning Metodo Classico in the world. Sparkling wines continue to be a phenomenon not only in terms of consumption, with year-round appeal and acceptance throughout a meal, whether paired with traditional or contemporary cuisine, fresh, light, and health-conscious, with or without food pairings - almost a “non-wine” -but also a cultural phenomenon, coming to represent a way of living life. “The Italian way”, of course: behind their success, in fact, there are also “sociological” reasons, as they serve as a “medium” for that conviviality that the whole world envies in Italy, adapting to every situation, whether culinary or social, whether to celebrate or toast something special, as a couple or in company.