Trip to Langhe, whose portrait is enclosed in a glass of Barolo di Serralunga d’Alba 2022

The exception which proves the rule. In a solar year marked by relentless heat and minimal rainfall, culminating in an early harvest, one might expect a shift toward density and opulence, but, on the contrary, Barolo 2022 express finesse and harmony, they are agile, dynamic, indulgent, exuberant, and, already today, there is a balance between tension, juiciness, and savoriness, with a distinctive interpretation of territorial authenticity. This is because the producers listened to their land and responded with skill, wisdom, and respect, leaving no room for hesitation. And in a challenging vintage from the very beginning, even the vines self-regulated to adapt to adversity. Between purity, fidelity, and the ability to evolve, this vintage offers a clear and linear vision aimed at an audience ready to discover, or rediscover, this great wine. Here is the portrait of the 2022 vintage of Barolo from the municipality of Serralunga d’Alba, the world’s first municipal designation, which the “king” of Italian wines proudly claims, which, arisen over 30 years ago, it is now more than ever a symbol of identity. Each year, its producers gather for “Serralunga Day,” the preview of the new vintage - this year featuring 26 wineries, a growing number - at Villaggio Narrante of Fontanafredda which was theater of the love story between Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II, and Rosa Vercellana, “La Bela Rosin,” to whom the future sovereign gifted the land where the winery now stands as a token of love. From there, in the late XIX century, the first Barolo was shipped abroad; in 1964, where Barolo Vigna La Rosa arose, the first to indicate the vineyard on the label; and in 1988, the first Barolo with a municipal mention was produced, vinifying separately the grapes from the Municipality of Serralunga d’Alba. Today, the estate is owned by the Farinetti family (as WineNews will soon explain in an upcoming video online).
“The world of the defeated has won: it was the Langa of the Resistance and of peasant toil, today it is the Langa of Barolo”: these are the words by Slow Food founder Carlin Petrini, a Doc native of the Langhe, who accompanied us on our journey through this region. As tradition now dictates, every September we resume our trips through the territories of Italian wine, explaining the charm of these vineyard-covered hills, Unesco World Heritage sites with a noble and rural soul -  which is reflected in some of the most beautiful pages of Italian literature, from Cesare Pavese to Beppe Fenoglio - and it inspires a way of doing things properly, with a deep commitment to quality f what one produces: from wine, starting with Barolo, arisen in the mid-19th century thanks to the vision of Marchesa of Barolo Giulia Colbert Falletti, and Camillo Benso Count of Cavour, and continuing with Barbaresco, Barbera, Asti, Alta Langa, Roero, and Gavi, but not only, to white truffle of Alba, and much more. Barolo’s bond with the Langhe is rooted in its diversity within uniqueness. It spans 11 municipalities, each with its own crus, covering just over 2,200 hectares and producing more than 13 million bottles. In 2024, Barolo saw a growth of +3.8%, with estimated values, according to WineNews, reaching around 2 million euros per hectare for the most prestigious crus, making them the most valuable in Italy and attracting new investments. In just over half a century, marked by the historic recognition of Docg status in 1980, Langhe wines have become among the most traded on Liv-ex, the most auctioned off, and among the most desired Riservas by collectors, with stellar valuations thanks to their longevity and aging potential. Today, Barolo is a wine defined by three key characteristics: it is monovarietal, made from the native Nebbiolo grape, and mostly produced by small, family-run wineries. Alongside its excellent quality, this strong identity is perfectly represented by the Additional Geographic Mentions (Mga), introduced in 2010. This path is increasingly essential to further elevate the value and prestige of Italian wine, which is being asked to deliver more and more typicity, history, and recognizability (as we will show in an upcoming video online).
Celebrating and enhancing the municipal designation of Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba is the goal of “Serralunga Day”, now in its edition No. 4, held today at Fontanafredda, a kind of “world day” dedicated to this wine, arisen from the shared desire of all producers in the denomination - from Alessandro Rivetto to Angelo Negro, from Bersano to Boasso Franco, from Ca’ Rome’ to Cantina del Nebbiolo, from Cascina Adelaide to Damilano, from Domenico Clerico to Enrico Serafino, from Ettore Germano to the Anselma Family, from Fontanafredda to Garesio, from Giovanni Rosso to Luigi Baudana, from Luigi Vico to Palladino, from Pico Maccario to Podere Gagliassi, from Principiano Ferdinando to Tenuta Cucco, from Tenuta Rocca to Villadoria, from Mauro Veglio to Vite Colte - to create a moment of dialogue and exchange on the different interpretations of the territory and vintages. This initiative takes shape as a preview of their most iconic Barolo presented to critics, media, and restaurateurs, showcasing 2022 vintage and some new developments. Starting from the introduction of a territorial study of Serralunga d’Alba led by “wine cartographer” Alessandro Masnaghetti, who joined Gabriele Gorelli, Italy’s first Master of Wine and Vinventions brand ambassador, in guiding a blind tasting, alongside Michaela Morris, wine writer, educator and judge, and Justin Knock, Australian Master of Wine. International Wine Clubs were also involved, such as The Dutch Wine Apprentice (Netherlands), VIaamse Wijngilde (Belgium), and representatives from Ais - Italian Sommelier Association Belgium and Luxembourg. Sergio Moscone, mayor of Serralunga d’Alba, Lorenzo Olivero, president of the Barolo and Great Wines of Langa Route, along with European journalists visiting Piedmont for an educational tour, and Sergio Germano, president of Consorzio del Barolo e Barbaresco were also present. This last underlined how the preview “further confirms the importance of Serralunga and its producers in expressing the territory. The municipal designation of Serralunga stands out as one of the most appreciated, gaining increasing recognition, especially among wineries and the market. Thanks to the synergy among producers, the municipal designation fully represents the territory, highlighting its strength, structure, and aging potential”.
In the spirit of dialogue between Italian red wines “ambassadors” of made in Italy around the world sharing many common traits such as tradition, purity, identity, longevity, elegance, and a contemporary vision, the preview also featured an exchange with 20 producers from Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino (from Argiano to Armilla, from Banfi to Casanuova delle Cerbaie, from Castello Tricerchi to Centolani, from Col d’Orcia to Croce di Mezzo, from Fanti to Fattoria dei Barbi, from Ferrero to La Fiorita, from La Fortuna to La Gerla, from La Magia to Patrizia Cencioni, from Tenute Donna Olga to Tenute Silvio Nardi, from Tiezzi to Uccelliera). “Montalcino and the Langhe are territories which have written, and continue to write the history of Italian wine in the world - said Giacomo Bartolommei, president of Consorzio del Brunello di Montalcino -  events like this strengthen the awareness that unity and exchange between such high-profile realities are essential to face future challenges and to continue engaging an increasingly attentive and passionate international audience”.
Together with Brunello producers, Barolo producers, Masters of Wine, and journalists formed a “super jury” for 2022 vintage, giving life to a portrait of the year, a detailed commentary revealing its many nuances and defining characteristics. These qualities were further enhanced by the new glass dedicated to the Nebbiolo of Serralunga d’Alba, “Sf Serralunga”, designed by Eisch Glass, master glassmakers from Bavaria since 1946. This glass was used to serve 26 labels of Barolo from the Municipality of Serralunga d’Alba 202, and 20 labels from Brunello di Montalcino producers with 2020 vintage during the Gala Dinner “Serralunga incontra Montalcino. In magnum” - “Serralunga meets Montalcino. In Magnum”. This six-handed dinner, open to the public, was hosted by the restaurateurs of Serralunga Vinoteca Centro Storico, Osteria Tre Case, and Guido Ristorante by Michelin-starred chefs Ugo and Piero Alciati at the Villa Reale of Fontanafredda. Proceeds from the event will be donated to La Collina degli Elfi in Govone, supporting a project dedicated to families with children recovering from cancer treatments which finished therapies, and began their recovery path.
In the background, meanwhile, it’s harvest time again in the Langhe. Once more, old and new generations of Barolo producers will work side by side to bring forth a new vintage of one of Italy’s greatest wines. It’s a moment that recalls how these lands once knew poverty, and how wine reversed their fate. The Langhe, uniquely in Italy, have historically been the stage for a distinctly wine-centered debate among “Barolo Boys”, “traditionalists”, “anarchists”, and “classicists”, a dynamic that has enriched dialogue and interpretative diversity, while amplifying the curiosity of the most knowledgeable audience, the primary target for a wine like Barolo. And while making predictions in an increasingly complex wine world is becoming ever more difficult, understanding the vision behind one of Italy’s most important wines can be useful to everyone.
Luigi Einaudi, the first President of the Italian Republic, a wine producer in his native Dogliani, and the man responsible for the restoration of the Castle of Serralunga d’Alba in the 1950s, one of the most beautiful castles in Piedmont, built by the Falletti Marquises, inventors of Barolo, once said: “in the life of nations, the mistake of failing to seize the fleeting moment is usually irreparable”.