Federica Boffa, 23 years old, at the helm of the 140-year-old historic winery Pio Cesare, in Alba

The history of wine in Italy is a very long one indeed, however, there are not many wineries that can boast a more than century-old existence. There is really only a small group, which includes one of the symbolic companies of Barolo, Pio Cesare, an icon of the fine wines of the Langhe. The winery’s foundations rest literally on ancient Roman walls in the city center of Alba, a unique case, and that is still fully operational. The Pio Cesare winery has made the history of Barolo and Italian wine, and is celebrating its 140 years, just a few days after the premature death of the man who guided it for many years, namely Pio Boffa, the “far-sighted winemaker and tireless ambassador of Barolo and Barbaresco around the world”. The entire wine world, from every corner of the planet, has come together to dedicate more than memories and tributes, testifying to the professional and human qualities of Pio. Now, the reins of the company, which has always been a family business, have been given into the hands of the fifth generation, and that is, to his very young daughter, Federica Rosy, 23, and his nephew, Cesare, who has been working in the company alongside Pio, for many years, “following the company’s unique, rigorous and unmistakable style”. They will continue producing wines in the Barolo tradition, which the family and Pio Boffa have always strenuously defended as well as that of Barolo blended with Nebbiolo from several vineyards. The 140 years of the winery will celebrate with Barolo and Barbaresco wines, including two limited editions that represent the history of the family and their very deep link to the territory.
Each wine has its very own identity and raison d'etre (not only Barolo and Barbaresco, but also the famous Chardonnay Piodilei and more, ed.), following the philosophy of Pio Cesare, and at the same time they are all linked to a single thread - the territory, representing and interpreting its many nuances with the utmost respect. “Each area, and plot of land, has its own character and only through the combination of these multiple differences that the wines we make are truly ours, traditional”, said Federica Boffa, recalling the words of her father, “It is our signature”. The property of Pio Cesare boasts 75 hectares of vineyards, purchased patiently starting in the 1970s, located in particularly valuable positions within most of the municipalities in the Barolo and Barbaresco area, in the top areas of the Langhe (Serralunga d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Novello, Monforte d’Alba and Treiso and San Rocco Seno d’Elvio). “Respecting their uniqueness, but representing them as a whole, is the mission that has always been handed down to us. The labels, designed by the founder, have always proudly depicted the coat of arms of the city of Alba. They will not change, but starting this year they will also bear the names "Barolo Pio" and "Barbaresco Pio", which these wines have been called since the 1960s, by our loyal public, and as we in the family have always called them”, continued Federica Boffa, who, at 23, has very clear ideas about family traditions. “To highlight the anniversary date, the double digit 1881-2021 will be shown on the Barolo Pio label and on the capsules of all our wines”. Two very small “editions” have also been created for the 140th anniversary, two collector wines, to be released in June: the new Barolo from the Municipality of Serralunga d’Alba, vintage 2017, and the Barolo Riserva 2000. “We have decided to pay tribute to our historical attachment to the Serralunga d’Alba terroir by producing in limited quantities only, exclusively on our anniversary, which we will probably never do again, a Barolo from a small part of each of the 4 family properties in that Municipality, Ornato, La Briccolina, La Serra and Lirano, which are reproduced on the label in the form of a multicolored tetrahedron. It is a very limited edition and we have numbered 1881 bottles in memory of the year of our foundation”, says Cesare Benvenuto Pio, who, since 2000, has worked alongside his uncle, Pio Boffa, in the company. It will be like going back to the origins for Pio Cesare, in a municipality that has always represented the essential starting point for producing Barolo Pio, great complexity, structure and longevity. Barolo Riserva 2000 is an even more limited edition, as only 500 copies will be numbered. Pio Boffa had the idea to “pay homage to Barolo, its longevity and the family tradition”. Each year, as a matter of fact, the company sets aside a small number of bottles in the most protected and secret area of ​​the winery. Pio Boffa had decided to release 500 bottles of the great 2000 vintage, when the winery reached the age of 140, because it was the one between the two centuries, which marked the beginning of a series of extraordinary vintages in the Langa. “And so it will be”, continued Cesare Benvenuto Pio. “Today, even more, it is a truly sentimental release. The key that kept the bottles jealously protected first by Nonna Rosy and then by Pio, will be reproduced on the label ”. Barolo Riserva 2000 is the first edition to come out of this precious family library, but Pio Cesare does not rule out that it could be the beginning of a series of exclusive editions. “It was a natural choice for us to focus on the Barolo that best represents the family philosophy, and not on a cru”, concluded Federica, “and it comes from the desire to privilege the style the founder imprinted, which for us is, and will always be, our style”.