Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is growing with “Tuscany” on the label. 2022 Harvest: “5 Stars”

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has always been a pioneer. Sante Lancerio, sommelier of Pope III Farnese, highly praised the wine of Montepulciano and according to him it was “perfect”. Francesco Redi, doctor and naturalist (in 2026 Montepulciano will celebrate the 400th anniversary of his birth), in 1685 wrote in his book, “Bacco in Toscana” that “Montepulciano is the King of all wines”. It was the first DOCG in Italy, as the band reads “AA 000001”, that is, number 1. It is one of the most advanced wine denominations in terms of sustainability certification, made at the territorial level for the wine supply chain, and for tourism, and it now is looking to the future. It is in an excellent state of health on the markets (1 billion euros the estimated value of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, including production, assets and turnover, over 65% from abroad, Germany and the USA leading), which is also the merit of their intuition to have inserted the wording "Tuscany" on the label in 2021. According to Andrea Rossi, president of the Consorzio del Vino Nobile, in three years, it has helped to put 20% more bottles on the market (our interview here).
The past history has taught the wine territory about the importance of caring for the vineyard, and more, as well as about climate change, at the Seminar that recounted the decades from the great frost of 1985 to today. The speakers were Guido Guidi, Lieutenant Colonel of the Air Force, and Luigi Mariani, professor at the University of Brescia (see Focus), as well as Roberta Garibaldi, professor of Tourism Management at the University of Bergamo and Giuseppe Giaccardi, Coordinator of the Scientific Committee on the research project Climate-sensitive Tourism by ENIT (Italian national tourist office). The denomination is looking to the present as well. The 2022 harvest in the glass is debuting on the markets as well as the 2021 Riserva, the Pievi. The 12 UGA (additional geographic units) including Ascianello, Badia, Gracciano, Caggiole, Le Grazie, Cerliana, Cervognano, San Biagio, Sant’Albino, Sant'Ilario, Valiano and Valardegna, are also debuting with vintage 2021, as they want to raise the bar of quality and positioning on the markets even higher. The 2022 vintages, 2021 Riserva and Pieve, were the stars of the tastings at Anteprima Vino Nobile (where the “Grifo d’Oro” prize was awarded to the wine critic, Raffaele Vecchione, alias “WinesCritic.com”). The 2022 harvest was given the maximum rating from the judges: 5 stars.
Due to the warm spring and early summer, the vintage was also early, while rainfall was average, meaning the stressful phases were avoided. It was a complicated as well as demanding vintage, but gave great satisfaction to the producers, as the report, illustrated by the oenologist Giovanni Capuano, explained. Regarding the consequences on the vegetative-productive development of the vines, the salient aspects of 2022 were high average temperatures in May, June and July, which significantly accelerated the vegetative development and shortened some phenological phases, making it definitely an early year. Then there was the distribution of rainfall, which even if the cumulative annual rainfall was 662 mm, and within the average for the Poliziano area, the first 8 months of the year registered an anomalous negative 38% rainfall, while the last 4 months an anomalous positive 35% rainfall. However, the distribution of rainfall did compensate for the water consumption of the vineyards (evapotranspiration), and in general, the onset of water stress phenomena was avoided. Grape harvesting procedures took place in the various areas of the denomination for the most part in the second half of September. Production quantity was lower than average, but definitely more abundant than 2021, and quality was excellent. At harvest time, both the technological ripeness and phenolic ripeness of the grapes very good, as well as an excellent health status due to the very low pressure of pathogens and parasites. The 2022 wines, tasted after malolactic fermentations, had very intense colors and expressed a notable aromatic complexity. The concentration was very good and supported by abundant, fine and pleasant tannins, and by medium acidity. At the analytic level, high values of intensity and color tone, alcohol, extracts and total polyphenols and average acidity and pH values were detected.
Below are the best tastings rated by the WineNews staff of the 2022 vintage, the Riserva and Le Pievi 2021, among the wines that participated in the Preview. Nobile di Montepulciano 2022 by Le Bertille has fruity aromas, hints of earth and some delicate touches. Its strong point is a pulpy, easy-going and savory taste, and a fragrant, well-profiled finish. Nobile di Montepulciano 2022 by Boscarelli continues to maintain its role as the point of reference for the entire denomination, which has smoky, earthy and fruity touches in the nose preparing the mouth for delightful energy. Nobile di Montepulciano Santa Caterina 2022 by Trerose (Angelini Wines & Estates) is convincing in its taste progression of intense fruit and spice aromas and a solid and articulated taste development. Nobile di Montepulciano Redi 2022 by Vecchia Cantina has an easy and fragrant sip as well as offering defined and well-profiled aromas. The aromas of Nobile di Montepulciano La Spinosa 2022 by Il Molinaccio with tones of ink, graphite and red fruits offers an enjoyable and pleasantly fruity mouthfeel. Nobile di Montepulciano Vallocaia Riserva 2021 by Bindella, is always satisfying with its aromas that bring to mind flint, earth and ripe red fruits, as well as toasty touches to finish. The mouthfeel is solid, tasty tannins and a very savory finish. The Consortium’s project “Pieve” (which, as mentioned, includes 12 areas of the denomination: Argiano, Ascianello, Badia, Caggiole, Cerliana, Cervognano, Gracciano, Le Grazie, San Biagio, Sant’Albino, Vallardenga and Valiano), has implemented its full marketing phase for the 2021 vintage in January. Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Ascianello 2022 by the De’ Ricci Winery stands out, delicate aromas of small red fruits, wild flowers and smoky and ferrous touches that prepare for a lively and lean taste progression, graceful tannins and a juicy and fragrant finish. Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Caggiole 2021 by Poliziano is also very good, fruity and spicy aromatic traits and an inviting mouthfeel bringing together well-balanced tannins and a broad and pulpy finish. Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Cervognano 2021 by Le Berne evokes fruits and aromatic herbs in the nose, which alternates dense and articulated tannins and a pleasantly savory fruit on the palate. Nobile di Montepulciano Pieve Gracciano 2021 by Gracciano della Seta, is noteworthy because of its airy aromas on floral and slightly toasty references, and a tasty and well-proportioned mouthfeel.

Focus - “From the cold wave in 1985 to today: what is the relationship between climate, viticulture and tourism in the Municipality of Montepulciano”

“The “Great Frost” in 1985. Climate, viticulture and landscape: the sense of change. Compared to the cool and rainy periods in the 1950s - 1980s of the twentieth century, interrupted by the two great cold waves in February 1956 and January 1985 (that made significant changes to viticulture and olive growing), and by some major floods (Polesine, Sicily, Sardinia and Calabria 1951, Florence 1966, Genoa 1970), the climate has changed considerably. Temperatures have increased 1.5°C on the annual average level; consequently, thermal stress and water stress have increased. The growing season has also lengthened and advanced, meaning there is a serious risk of damage from late frosts. At the same time, ripening time for grapes is 10-15 days, so they easily avoid the autumn rainy phase. All of this has pushed winemakers to pay more attention to the vineyard in terms of adapting to the changing climate (for instance, canopy management and phytosanitary treatments or the genetics of rootstocks). Another theme to reflect upon is the deep connection between climate, viticulture and the environment. Tuscan landscapes are profoundly human, in the sense that human activity has been there for tens of thousands of years. This activity became more significant when agriculture started 7.000 years ago, and then, 3.000 years ago, viticulture began. The wheat-rice-olive triad, upon which the food security of our populations has been based since the Etruscan era, also started at that time. What would Tuscan landscapes be like without the atmospheric component? Atmospheric landscapes are iridescent, made of light, clouds, sun and wind. Artists have captured them in different eras, thanks to the sensitivity that distinguishes them. Essentially, vine-climate-landscapes-art in Tuscany are one, and the historic village of Montepulciano is one of its most significant expressions” (edited by Professor Luigi Mariani, University of Brescia and Museum of the History of Agriculture).

Focus - Vino Nobile di Montepulciano’s numbers

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is a regional asset . Its economy is estimated at 1 billion euros including assets, turnover and production. 65 million euros is the average annual value of wine production, while wine directly influences 70% of the local economy. It is a significant figure for the wine territory in which 2.000 hectares out of 16.500 hectares of municipal surface are vineyards, or 16% of the municipal landscape is vines. Of the 2.000 hectares of vineyards, 1.200 hectares are registered with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, while 390 hectares are registered with Rosso di Montepulciano DOC. More than 250 winemakers cultivate these vineyards (90 bottlers in total, 81 of whom are associated with the Consortium of producers). There are a thousand permanent employees working in the wine sector in Montepulciano, in addition to the same number of seasonal workers. In 2024, in line with the numbers over the past several years, 6.7 million bottles of Vino Nobile and 2.3 million of Rosso di Montepulciano were placed on the market. The market indicates that values are stable. In 2024, exports accounted for 65.5% of the total (in 2023 it was 66%), while the remaining 34.5% is marketed in Italy. The growth trend, over the past few years, in direct sales at the company continues, and in 2024 was more than 35%. Furthermore, regarding the domestic market, the main sales are registered in Central Italy (62%), and in Tuscany, 42%. In the North, sales are 33% and in the South 5.30%. Abroad, instead, sales are divided in half, between Europe and non-EU countries. 35% of exports go to America (North and South), and 29.2% to Europe (excluding Italy). Germany continues to be the number one market for Nobile holding 37% of the export share. The United States is also continuing to grow, totaling 28% of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano exports. The growth trend in Canada is also continuing, which alone is worth 5% of exports. The really significant figure is the market share of organic Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. On the Italian panorama, it is worth 44.7% of sales, while at the International level, it boasts more than 50% of total sales.