Brunello di Montalcino 2021: enjoyable wines despite a vintage with a dry imprint

In a phase of clear instability in the most significant wine markets, weighed down by multiple factors, Brunello di Montalcino 2025 bottling realigns to volumes close to the same period of the previous year (-0.9%). The balance for the first 10 months - according to the analysis by Valoritalia based on State seals delivered - stands at 7.63 million bottles, compared to 7.69 million of last year. Evidently, however, the critical nature of the current situation should not be underestimated. “There isn’t necessarily an automatic correlation between bottlings and product sold - declared the Consortium president Giacomo Bartolommei - but the figure is still an interesting market indicator which brings us back to a floating line after more difficult months”. Attention remains high, and “the Consortium is convinced of the need to activate a promotional program for the denomination, with collective participation in the main and historic export market - the United States - as well as in other arenas, with the goal of diversifying business opportunities for our wines as much as possible”. In this situation, clearly subject to necessary and continuous monitoring, also in relation to the strong impact of extra-economic factors, the presentation of Brunello di Montalcino 2021 arrives at “Benvenuto Brunello” 2025 in Montalcino (November 20th-24th, also featuring Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020 and Rosso di Montalcino 2024), a preview that, despite the current uncertain context, outlines a somewhat reassuring scenario, at least judging by the result in the glass, even before the markets. The trend shows an overall lightening of the wines in search of balance and finesse - one might say embracing the stylistic legacy of Franco Biondi Santi (“the uncompromising custodian” of Brunello tradition, invented at the end of the 19th century by his family at Tenuta Greppo, ed), far removed from the expression of Brunello in the first decade of the new millennium - leaving behind over-extraction and oversized oak influence. A clear shift in perspective that increasingly defines the differences between wines produced in the northern and southern parts of the denomination.
That said, according to the vintage assessment introduced last year, based on expert analysis of Brunello characteristics and replacing the star-rating system, the 2021 vintage inevitably falls among those generally classified as warm, part of a trio which continues with 2022 and 2023, in the now predominant climate warming that, at our latitudes, inevitably impacts most visibly the crucial harvest months. The 2021 vintage was marked by a hot summer with only sporadic rain at the end of August and high temperatures, though without particularly intense heatwaves. This general framework led to an occasionally early harvest and produced grapes that were healthy but, evidently, with some imbalance in ripening. The result is generally well-made wines with immediate appeal, but in some cases with tannic structure not fully “covered” by fruit, hardened by oak influence, and showing very ripe fruit expression, accompanied by some alcoholic thrust and a slight drop in acidity.
In the glass, among the best WineNews tastings, Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Giodo stands out (which also presented the new Brunello “Pretto”, a more “playful” interpretation of its “older brother”), with a lovely earthy character and flashes of Mediterranean herbs and spices, anticipating a well-profiled, refined sip with compelling progression. Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Giuseppe Gorelli offers aromas of ripe orange with smoky notes and a palate with good contrast and a finish still a bit tight. Rose, ripe red fruit, and spices mark the Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli 2021 by Canalicchio di Sopra, with a dense, fleshy, and powerful sip. Playing the finesse game, as usual, there is Brunello di Montalcino AD1441 2021 by Castello Tricerchi, with nuanced aromas and a slender, light silhouette. Refined with underbrush, ripe orange, and spice aromas, there is Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Fuligni with a compact and well-paced taste development. Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Gianni Brunelli is small but tasty with aromas of ripe berries and earthy hints. A pleasant surprise is Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Paradiso di Cacuci, with fragrant red fruit and aromatic herbs accompanying a flavorful, lively, and well-profiled sip.
A “stylish” wine, Brunello di Montalcino Veltha 2021 by Maté, with good fruit character and a lively, continuous sip. Beautiful fruit definition in Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Pietroso, with a full and tasty palate. Brunello di Montalcino Vigna I Poggi 2021 by Poggio Antico is very good with a well-defined aromatic profile and a flavorful, articulated taste progression. Floral and spicy tones characterize Brunello di Montalcino Vigna del Lago 2021 by Val di Suga, whose strength lies in its lively and layered sip. Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Soccorso 2021 by Tiezzi seems to have definitively left behind past aromatic uncertainties, lining up floral and fruity aromas on a smoky base, anticipating a vibrant and savory sip. Oak stands out in the aromas of Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2021 by Caparzo with a compact and well-profiled palate. A wine of character, savory and fleshy, Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Fattoi. Good nose with fragrant red fruit tones and smoky flashes for Brunello di Montalcino 2021 by Casanova delle Cerbaie with a solid and well-proportioned sip.
Moving to the 2020 vintage - which sees its wine declination of Brunello Riserva - its climatic character offered appreciable features during the crucial harvest months (June-October), though with an uneven trend and certainly tricky management (for example, in choosing the harvest time), but which - if well handled - could deliver intriguing wines, thanks also to Sangiovese qualities, challenged by continuous heat yet highly reactive in making the most of every climatic element in the name of freshness (rain and lower temperatures) during its ripening process.
Thus, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020 by Poggio di Sotto shines, recalling the glory of its founder Piero Palmucci production, with aromas intertwining earthy fruit, freshly wilted flowers, smoky touches, and flinty notes, accompanying a sip with refined tannic texture and continuous sapidity. Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura Riserva 2020 by Banfi is well-executed, though built on modern stylistic registers, with spicy touches contrasting lush, defined fruit, anticipating a solid and well-profiled taste progression. Among Brunellos delaying their release, Brunello di Montalcino 2020 by Biondi-Santi shines with extraordinary aromatic integrity, alternating orange, Mediterranean scrub, and small red fruits with floral and smoky hints, its sip moving in a constant and inviting sweet/acid contrast.
Brunello di Montalcino Teatro Riserva 2020 by Salicutti is clear and rich in red pulp fruit, as well as flowers and aromatic herbs, , with flavorful persistence on the palate and a pleasant sweet/acid contrast, well marked by a firm yet gentle tannic texture. Brunello di Montalcino Phenomena Riserva 2020 by Sesti convinces again is with a sanguine and iodized character, airy and gentle, sharp in notes of spices and small red fruits in jam, yet welcoming and calm on the palate. Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia 2020 by Lisini is decisively intriguing with lush and fragrant fruit accompanied by smoky and flinty touches. The sip is juicy with beautiful earthy, incisive tannins. With the austere tones of a great wine, Brunello di Montalcino Diecianni Riserva 2016 by Le Chiuse successfully plays the longevity game.