Sparkling wines, territory and vine variety make difference. Nomisma research at “Durello & Friends”

Monti Lessini is officially the new denomination of origin dedicated to Metodo Classico for the territory between the provinces of Verona and Vicenza. Based on the native Durella grape, it will be the only DOC in Veneto exclusively dedicated to the production of Metodo Classico, taking the name of the production area, Monti Lessini, while sparkling wines produced using Metodo Charmat will continue to bear the existing wording Lessini Durello. This is a substantial distinction in production rules, necessary above all for consumers.
The debut of Monti Lessini at “Durello & Friends 2025” No. 23 of the event organized by Consorzio di tutela del Lessini Durello - the Lessini Durello Protection Consortium in Verona in last days, crowned a journey which began more than ten years ago which marks a particularly significant moment, both an arrival and a new starting point, though it faces the challenge of limited production volumes. “It is an arrival point because the path was not easy, nor obvious, and was widely debated among producers - narrated Gianni Tessari, president of the Lessini Durello Consortium to Winenews - which allows us to communicate and approach the market and consumers with a much clearer and more defined identity, with less ambiguity and risk of confusion. Today, we have reached one million bottles considering both types, with Metodo Classico exceeding 30% of the total and continuing to grow. These are not large figures, we are aware of that, but it is a growth indicator which is not so common in the wine world. Not everyone can show a positive sign in production, even if overall volumes are modest. In a complex moment for wine, where sparkling wines seem unaffected by downturns, working on valorizing Metodo Classico and the sparkling vocation of our area becomes strategic”. There is enough vineyard area to expand production, and above all, Durella has a natural aptitude for sparkling wine. This native grape maintains high acidity even at full phenolic ripeness, a trait somewhat moderated by climate change, which now allows it to be used in purity without blending with complementary varieties like Chardonnay, as it was common decades ago. Its typical acidity and the minerality from volcanic soils, enhanced by Metodo Classico, give Monti Lessini distinctive characteristics highlighted in a masterclass featuring a blind tasting alongside “friends 2025”: Trentodoc, Franciacorta, and Alta Langa. The results of the Nomisma Wine Monitor study, “Percezione e prospettive delle bollicine alternative nei consumatori italiani” - “perception and perspectives of alternative sparkling wines among Italian consumers”, presented during the talk “Bollicine da Metodo Classico: lo stato dell’arte” - “Metodo Classico sparkling wines: the state of the art” were particularly interesting.
It is striking that, despite the survey being conducted among consumers familiar with and frequent drinkers of sparkling wines, few know the differences between the two production methods. Overall, knowledge is partial and superficial, representing both a challenge and an opportunity for the Monti Lessini DOC. “The consumer - highlighted Evita Gandini, Head of Market Insights at Nomisma Wine Monitor, analyzing Monti Lessini commercial potential - recognize the identity link with the territory as the true added value of a high-quality sparkling wine. Furthermore, the presence of a denomination of origin and the altitude of the area (hills or mountains) are considered distinctive features of a good Metodo Classico sparkling wine by 18%, 12%, and 11% of consumers, respectively. Also the grape origin is relevant in this value map: being native is a key advantage for 17% of consumers”. However, judging by the responses, most consumers are unaware of the distinction between “native” and “international” varieties. “Less relevant (4%) - continued Gandini - is the prerogative of long aging on the lees, indicating that a high-quality Metodo Classico wine can also be expressed in light, fresh versions without great structure. To turn curiosity into perceived value and real willingness to pay, it is essential to narrate the method, territory, and variety: native grapes (for one-third of consumers, origin is the first element to valorize), volcanic soils (18%), versatility (17%), and altitude (10%) are key elements to convey to consumers”. Distribution channels remain crucial. “In the Horeca channel, which accounts for one-third of wine sales - underlined Bruno Berni, Business Development Manager at Cfi Group - beverage distributors play a key role, absorbing 75% of it. After years of growth, in 2025 wine (like other alcoholic beverages) has slowed down (more in volume than value). Nevertheless, it remains one of the most important categories for beverage distributors, representing 17% of their turnover. Sparkling wines (which account for 33% of wine sales in Horeca) are the only segment still growing, thanks in part to Prosecco strong performance, which now represents 47% of sparkling wine sales.

This highlights that half of the market consists of other types of sparkling wines, covering both the lower and higher ends; therefore, even a new product like Monti Lessini can find its space. But under two conditions. First, abandoning the logic of pure sell-in: it is essential to create a product which meets consumer tastes, with a clear and consistent positioning supported by sell-out and trade marketing activities. Secondly, choosing the right partners in the Horeca channel. There are 2,000 beverage distributors, seemingly all the same, but in reality very different in size, philosophy, organization, and especially in the role wine plays for them”.

The strategic role of Horeca was also discussed by Lucio Roncoroni, director of Cda (Consorzi Distributori Alimentari - Food Distributors Consortia), an organization which brings together 80 distribution companies and interacts daily with over 100,000 points of sale across Italy: “the Horeca channel is today one of the most sensitive and strategic places to understand the evolution of the wine market. From our perspective, the picture is complex: 2025 will close for Horeca roughly flat: the alcoholic beverage segment shows signs of strain due to changes in consumption, price list rationalization, and greater consumer spending caution. In this scenario, sparkling wines represent a significant exception: they are the only growing wine segment thanks to their versatility and ability to appeal to different audiences”. According to data collected by Cda, on the one hand, more accessible sparkling wines are growing, while on the other hand, Metodo Classico sparkling wines show potential for differentiation and offering positioning. In other terms, a commercial opportunity to be seized. However, concluded Roncoroni, “to seize these opportunities, product quality alone is not enough. It is necessary to strengthen training, storytelling, and collaboration along the supply chain because “selling wine” is not selling a commodity, but transferring culture, context, and value”.