“Chianti Classico Collection” 2026: two opposing vintages define the Black Rooster wines

After a positive 2025 for the Chianti Classico denomination on the markets, with a growth of +1.2% in volume and +2.6% in value, thanks especially to the increasing appreciation for the territory premium styles, Riserva and Gran Selezione, which now account for 43% of total volume and 55.2% of total value, as the president of the Consortium of Chianti Classico Giovanni Manetti explained, the Black Rooster region looks with confidence to 2026, when the new vintages will reach the market with distinctly different characteristics. On the one hand, there are the leaner, very fresh and straightforward wines of Chianti Classico 2024; on the other hand, Riserva and Gran Selezione from 2023, fuller-bodied wines with softer, comforting tones. This is, in essence, the immediate picture emerging from WineNews tastings of the 2026 “Chianti Classico Collection” which revealed two very different, and in some ways opposite, harvests: 2024 and 2023.
The 2024 vintage - 305,000 hectoliters in total production - was marked during the crucial pre-harvest months, starting in late May, by below-average temperatures and frequent, abundant rainfall until June. July and August were generally less scorching compared to the now typical climate-change-driven patterns, with rainfall continuing regularly into September and beyond, “setting the stage” for a harvest that stretched nearly to the end of October. This was an exceptional situation, reminiscent of harvests in the 1990s, characterized by cooler weather patterns and a longer, more extended picking period culminating in October. As a result, the 2024 harvest, with its unusual, and in some respects now “rare” climatic conditions, produced wines that are overall well-made but, as one might say, “good but not great” with, of course, some exceptions. It was a challenging vintage for producers, who nonetheless could work with elements favorable to crafting wines with a “contemporary” and “food-friendly” stylistic imprint. Fragrant aromas and a straightforward, agile, vibrant palate. Naturally, some labels show a slightly weak backbone or noticeably lean tannins that might pose questions for the future of Riserva and Gran Selezione expressions from this vintage. The picture is entirely different for the 2023 vintage. July was decidedly hot, with maximum temperatures consistently above 30 celsius degrees. August followed a similar thermal trend, with an additional heat peak reaching up to 40 celsius degrees and little rainfall. September, too, was warmer than average (+1.6 celsius degrees), with highs close to or exceeding 30 celsius degrees (and, in some days, even over), and rainfall limited to a few isolated events. Harvest timing was therefore shorter and concentrated between early/mid-September and early/mid-October. Spring had been marked by numerous rainy days and high humidity, ideal conditions for downy mildew, which led to a drop in yields (200,000 hectoliters). The tasting of the 2023 wines confirmed the vintage expected traits (a widespread drinkability and a comforting sweet impression), but also certain drawbacks, such as a generally more “Mediterranean”, round, warm aromatic profile, and, in some cases, flavor development lacking in freshness, though exceptions were certainly present.
These, followingly, the best tastings by WineNews staff. Chianti Classico 2024 by Badia a Coltibuono shows an unmistakable sense of refinement, with fragrant aromas and a pleasantly subtle, flavorful palate. These fundamental traits are also found in Chianti Classico 2024 by Buondonno, marked by elegantly floral purity. A small masterpiece of balance, energy, and drinkability is Chianti Classico “Sonocosì” 2024 by Jurij Fiore (son of Vittorio Fiore and co-owner of Poggio Scalette), thanks in part to its origin in the Lamole Uga. Also Chianti Classico Duelame 2024 by Lamole in Lamole (Gruppo Herita Marzotto Wine Estates) comes from this area, a well-made wine with defined fruity tones and a savory, flavorful sip. Chianti Classico Retromarcia 2024 by Monte Bernardi delivers a driving, very savory sip with great vibrancy and straightforward aromas. Chianti Classico 2024 by Poggerino hits the vintage well, juicy and savory on the palate. Chianti Classico 2024 by Corsini Villa Le Corti is equally well crafted, whose generous fruit anticipates a fragrant and steady flavor development. Chianti Classico 2024 by Tenuta Casenuove is solid and confidently structured with fruity and underbrush notes and a firm, flavorful palate
Turning to the 2023 vintage, elegantly shaped and refined Chianti Classico 2023 by Castello di Monsanto stands out. Chianti Classico Lamole 2023 by I Fabbri is delicate in its aromas and gustatory flow. Chianti Classico La Porta di Vertine 2023 by Bertinga offers charming aromas blending earth and red fruits with a savory, energetic palate. Chianti Classico 2023 by Erta di Radda shows lovely gustatory energy with straightforward, decisive aromas. Chianti Classico 2023 by Val delle Corti is a captivating interpretation of the vintage, with nuanced aromas and a rhythmic, flavorful progression. Chianti Classico 2023 by Tenuta Perano (Frescobaldi) is well-made and expresses a soberly modern style. Chianti Classico 2023 by Tenuta Carleone is dynamic and “gastronomic”.
Among Riserva wines, Chianti Classico Riserva 2023 by Brancaia, probably the company most accomplished wine, featuring refined aromas and a well-shaped palate. Chianti Classico Riserva 2023 by Capraia (Rocca di Castagnoli) is characterized by sunny and well-defined aromas which offers a fleshy and well-proportioned sip. Chianti Classico Riserva 2023 by Castello di Volpaia is equally well-executed with fruity and spicy aromatics and a solid, flavorful progression. Chianti Classico Riserva 2023 by La Montanina is defined and classically styled, with fruit and underbrush references, and is convincing also on the palate, with a fleshy, continuous sip. Floral and spicy notes with a ferrous edge highlight Chianti Classico Riserva 2023 by Riecine, tonic and deep on the palate. Chianti Classico Riserva 2023 by Rocca della Macìe skillfully intertwines alcohol, juicy structure, freshness, and layered fruity and earthy notes, while Chianti Classico Vallenuova Riserva 2023 by Tolaini delights with its dense, balsamic texture enriched by the sweet-tart profile of small wild berries.
Chianti Classico Riserva 2022 by Castello di Radda is also noteworthy alternating sweet spices with underbrush, dried flowers, and cherry in a calm, deep, lingering sip; Chianti Classico Novecento Riserva 2022 by Dievole, with a blood-tinged progression and savory texture preceded by intense, clean aromas; in the end, Chianti Classico La Forra Riserva 2022 by Tenuta di Nozzole, rocky in character yet sweet with candy-like blackberry, fleshy on the palate, and finishing with fresh spices. Among the Gran Selezione wines, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Badia a Passignano 2023 by Antinori shows defined, lively aromas, a full and rhythmic sip, and a long, spicy, savory finish. Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2023 by Cigliano di Sopra is excellent and features subtle aromas of wild herbs and small red fruits and a lively, smooth palate progression. Crystal-clear aromatics define Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Barbischio 2023 by Maurizio Alongi, paired with a balanced, reactive sip. Chianti Classico Gran Selezione La Corte 2023 by Castello di Querceto offers a substantial yet fresh palate, thanks to aromas of underbrush, red citrus, and vegetal nuances. A fine modernist interpretation comes from Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Brolio 2023 by Ricasol, delicate in aroma and sweet on the palate. Finally, among the noteworthy 2022 Gran Selezione wines, there are Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Sanlorenzo 2022 by Castello di Ama, with defined aromas and a juicy, continuous palate. Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Badiola 2022 by Castello di Fonterutoli is well-executed, fragrant and solid, and Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto Cerbaiola 2022 by Castello di Gabbiano has a beautiful aromatic and gustatory precision. Also Gran Selezione Riserva Ducale Oro 2022 by Ruffino is well-executed with dense yet fine aromas and an intense, balanced sip, combining savory grip and fleshy fluidity.
As a pleasant exception, it is worth mentioning Gran Selezione Salivolpe 2021 by San Leonino (Angelini Wines and Estates) which offers lively, edgy aromas of small wild berries with menthol hints which give a rhythmic progression to its sunny, persistent palate.