“BOTTEGA DEL VINO”: THE MINISTER OF AGRICULTURE GIANCARLO GALAN, ENTREPRENEURS AND PRODUCERS JOIN TO KEEP ON TOASTING AT THE FAMOUS CULT WINE SHOP IN VERONA. THE HISTORIC SHOP HAS A CAPITAL IN BOTTLES OF 4-5 MILLION EUROS. THE INTERVIEW WITH BARZAN

Wine lovers, perhaps all is not lost. We’re talking about the story of the “Bottega del Vino” in Verona, the cult shop of Italian (and not only) wine enthusiasts, which has announced it is in liquidation and closing because of disagreements between the two partners, the major shareholder and historic owner Severino Barzan (“Man of the Year in 1998 for the “Revue du Vin de France”) and Gianni Pascucci.
Besides the keen interest shown by the Minister of Agriculture (and former governor of the Veneto) Giancarlo Galan to save the “bottegon”, WineNews sources say there are already many concrete manifestations of interest from entrepreneurs and producers to buy out Pascucci’s shares and start a new course for the historic “Bottega”. The Bottega’s reputation, the symbolic value of the premises and the economic aspect are making many people interested in it: a turnover of between 2 and 3 million euros per year, a capital in bottles in the cellar estimated at around 4-5 million euros, plus the value of the location in the heart of Verona, near the Arena. All the major wine producers and personalities attend Vinitaly, the world wine event and among those who have come to the Bottega are Berlusconi, Gerhard Schroeder, Sandro Pertini and the Queen of Holland.

Focus - Interview with Severino Barzan, owner of “La bottega del Vino”
The bottega first opened in the 1500’s, under Venetian reign, in the same location it is still today. At that time the French Consulate (suggesting the name of the street) occupied the top floors. During the Austrian Empire, it became the Biedermayer Inn. In 1890 the Soave Cellar bought it and named it “Bottega Vini” (wine shop) and the name has remained. The name by which we all know it is the “Bottega del Vino” and this is the sign in New York at the intersection of Fifth and Fifty-ninth Street, where its faithful copy is located. The formula that made it a beloved Veronese shop has given it great success overseas as well. The creator of this fortunate clone is Severino Barzan, born in Friuli and adopted by Verona, who has been at the helm since 1986. He is a professional with great international experience and was elected Man of the Year by a major French magazine of the wine industry.
Let’ talk about you and your personal history ...
I was born in the city of Aviano, in Friuli, in 1945. My father wanted me to become a lawyer, but it was not my cup of tea. I was fascinated by the hotel industry and did everything possible to drop out of school and go to Venice to work (even though, at that time, staff was not treated very well). From Venice I went to France to learn the language, then to Milan, where I had to work and study to finish school. I then moved to Cornwall in England to learn the language and after that to Germany. I started college and did not finish, but I did make my father very happy when 10 years ago I received an honorary degree in Economics and Business from Prodea University of Albany (New York).
What brought you to Verona?
I had come back from Germany to Milan to be maître d’ at the Hotel New York, when I received a telegram from the Due Torri Hotel in Verona (the treasurer of the Italian Federation of Hotel Porters had mentioned me). So in the early sixties I came to Verona. At first, I must be honest; I struggled to settle in, since life here was very different from what I had been used to. But I am still here after 40 years. I have become a Veronese and the city of Verona has become my town.
What brought you to the Bottega del Vino?
In the early seventies I started managing various clubs, including Sgarzerie Court, the bar Friuli and the Cantinone. For nearly twelve years I co-managed Gardaland (the amusement park) and other businesses on Lake Garda. In the eighties I learned that the Bottega del Vino was for sale. I was convinced that such a place could not be privately owned but had to be publicly owned by the municipality or region. It seemed impossible to me - it was a dream come true. The Bottega is not a restaurant; it is like buying a monument. There is no comparison between this and other places in Verona, or anywhere else, because no other place can boast the same history. I think the Veronese consider it their home away from home, as reflected in the poems Berto Barbarani wrote about the Bottega del Vino.
But, now there are two shops...
Since November 1st, 2004, a replica (a little bigger) of the Bottega is located between Fifth Avenue and Fifty-ninth Street, in the center of Manhattan. It was a gamble, but it paid off. The location helped, because between Fortieth, Seventieth and Park Avenue live the richest people in the world. They are all people who have traveled extensively and are well acquainted with the Bottega in Verona. One of the journalists from USA Today last year defined it a miracle, because even big names struggle to make an impact in the first three years. In New York there are 6000 Italian restaurants, but we have been perceived as something different because of our attention to Northeast Italian traditions and Verona in particular. They acknowledged that our risotto with Amarone and bigoli with duck were firsts. Then there was the great wine list. I wanted to bring my reserves there and now we offer 2000 different wines. The wines of the day are listed on a blackboard, the way we do it here in Italy and this is a novelty in America, but quickly accepted and liked.
Who is your typical customer in New York?
We are considered “expensive” for New York, but in America, this has a positive meaning - it is a virtue, not a defect. If you are located on Fifth and Fifty-ninth you cannot not be expensive. However, a bit due to our skill and a bit due to luck we immediately interested big names. Hillary Clinton often organizes receptions here, as does Nancy Pelosi, the State senator and many famous actors. Of course, when one of these personalities moves, the New York Times publishes articles, spotlighting our address and phone number. Once we hosted a State senator, whose guests were valued by the New York Times at around 100 billion dollars. It may seem strange, but within five hours we got eight orders for parties. We are now a brand name in America.
Also here in Italy the Bottega del Vino is a brand name...
Of course it is, although it must be stressed that in Italy it has five hundred years of history, whereas in America about three and a half years – it’s quite different. Here it is easier to list who hasn’t been here rather than who has. When I came twenty-two years ago, the shop was on a down trend, which had been the result of questionable choices, so I worked hard to bring it back to its traditional splendor. Eventually the people of Verona returned to eat tidbits and drink a few glasses of wine, like always. I also bet on the selection of wines and although I was not expecting to receive the Grand Award by Wine Spectator, we did. The encouragement came from the increasingly positive trend, which has continued to grow thanks to word of mouth alone. I transferred the same system to the United States and I see it’s a winner there, too.
What about the cuisine?
The Bottega del Vino is tradition. It’s the history of Verona, so the dishes that represent the city are permanently on the menu, regardless of the season: from pastisada, pasta and beans and salt cod. Of course the chef has the freedom to offer the dishes of the day he prefers, maybe creating something new with fish, but the base is typically Veronese. As for me, I’m a follower of the great Luigi Carnacina and believe that tripe is a restaurant dish because it requires more time and expertise in preparation than, say, a grilled fillet that anyone can cook. Fortunately, many people think the same. I do not like prizes, but I do like one in particular that I received from Veronelli. He assigned me his Sun for braised beef Amarone- one of our top main courses-rustic and territorial, it reflects my philosophy. It is not an easy feat to prepare a great braised beef. If there weren’t people like me who totally believe in traditional cooking, within in the space of one or two generations everything would taste the same and we would all be eating hamburgers, never knowing what a dish like parmesan tripe was. In this sense, the Bottega del Vino is and remains a stronghold.
How about the staff?
There are about 30 people working in the Bottega. I am very proud to have a staff that has been here from the opening day. They are colleagues and brothers to me. We have created a wonderful team that feels like the Bottega is theirs. I think the salary of course counts, but I also believe that satisfaction is equally important. In America, where more than sixty people work, the only difficulty we had was to put together so many different kinds of people that had to start working together. Now seventy percent of the workers are Italian - the chef is from Puglia, and so on.
We imagine that the journey will continue into the future ...
We will certainly continue along the same road. Italian culture, food and wines have opened doors in many parts of the world, so we are often asked to repeat the American experience in other areas of the world. We’ll see what the future brings.