Great wine territories changing: the “new wave” of Montalcino according to “The Wine Advocate”

Stylistic change, in wine territories, even those identified as “great classics”, has always been there. It is inevitable, because the wine product is a combination of many changing factors: from climate to weather, from technology to knowledge of the territory, to changing tastes of consumers and critics. A change that sometimes, as happened in the celebrated case of the “Barolo Boys”, in the Langhe between the 1980s and the 1990s, comes with a movement that deliberately decides to break the mold, and that others, on the other hand, happens almost naturally, so much so that it risks going unnoticed. And if sometimes it is the already leading companies that anticipate and lead the changes, sometimes it is smaller, and relatively young, realities compared to the history of the area.
And it is this second path that is taking shape in one of the most prestigious territories of Italian wine according to one of the most authoritative voices of the world’s critics, namely that of “Robert Parker Wine Advocate”, whose signature for Italy is Monica Larner, who knows the territory well and for a long time. And who, from the tastings of the 2019 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino (with the best tastings, from 99 points out of 100, being Le Ragnaie’s Brunello di Montalcino V.V. 2019 and Il Marroneto’s Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie 2019, followed closely by the labels of Poggio di Sotto, Giodo and Salicutti), glimpses “a possible beginning of a new identity”.
“It is too early to call it a “new wave” or a “nouvelle vague” - Monica Larner points out in her article in The Wine Advocate - but cinephiles may recognize some patterns, a desire for experimentation and a spirit of iconoclasm that can be compared to the French film movement of the late 1950s, led by Jean-Luc Godard, Agnès Varda and François Truffaut. I am referring to an increasingly close-knit group of artisanal winemakers such as Il Marroneto, Le Chiuse, Le Ragnaie, Pian dell’Orino, Poggio di Sotto, Salicutti and Stella di Campalto, who are independently but simultaneously pushing the bar upward. Their work is based on timeless classics created by Biondi-Santi, Cerbaiona, Soldera and Salvioni. To borrow another term from the French language: I would say that this group is demonstrating a clear “raison d’être” (reason for being, ed.). They move with absolute confidence in winemaking to embrace the “Burgundian” or “baroque” side of Sangiovese that captures vibrant flavors, light and energy. They are crystal clear in their methods and messages. They exist to pursue the elegance of Sangiovese and the beauty of Montalcino”.
“The 2019 Brunellos of Montalcino are a force for optimism and unification”, Monica Larner continues, “I actually felt a spirit of community around these wines and a clearer sense of purpose that had eluded me in previous vintages”. “Montalcino, thanks to this “Nouvelle Vague” - concludes the Robert Parker Wine Advocate signature - is emerging as an even more complex, reliable and enlightened wine territory”.