Italian wine, from Amarone to Lambrusco, marries Oriental cuisine and toasts the Chinese New Year

Recently, a WineNews analysis revealed that Italian wine exports to China have practically returned to pre-Pandemic levels. The merit goes also to the many Italian cuisine outpost restaurants in China, and thanks to the many great Italian chefs across the border’s initiatives and desires to experiment. The most loved and famous Italian wines are now well established on the wine lists of ethnic restaurants in Italy. This is because the road that leads to the East, and the road that leads to the West also come to the table, the par excellence symbol of integration and conviviality between even very distant civilizations, united by mutual passion and the fascination that their different and ancient cultures have had on each other from the beginning of time. This combination is constantly looking for new opportunities to be celebrated, like the Chinese New Year (February 1st), when Italian wine, from Amarone della Valpolicella to Lambrusco, will marry Chinese cuisine to toast 2022, the “Year of the Tiger”, symbol of the strength and courage to think outside the box, according to the Chinese horoscope.
In the exchanges between East and West, as well as spiritualism and materialism, from ancient philosophy to scientific discoveries, up to the Pandemic, the table takes on the contours of an emblematic place of continuous search for balance between East and West (analyzed in a recent essay by an influential expert, Federico Rampini, “East and West. Mass and individual”, released in the middle of the first lockdown by Einaudi Stile Libero, ed.). Le Famiglie Storiche, the Association that brings together 13 historic wineries from Valpolicella and Amarone, including Allegrini, Begali, Brigaldara, Guerrieri Rizzardi, Masi, Musella, Speri, Tedeschi, Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Tommasi, Torre D'Orti, Venturini and Zenato - have chosen to celebrate the long-awaited Chinese New Year 2022 event in a different and contemporary way. They will combine their Amarone wine with regional Chinese haute cuisine, at one of the most renowned Chinese restaurants in Milan, Bon Wei. From February 1st to 13th the restaurant will offer a special menu by Chef Zhang Guoqing, to which Amarone, produced by the Families, will be proposed in combination to the menu. The celebratory “Year of the Tiger” menu will follow the standards of Chinese meals. There will be Dim-sum mixed with auspicious Jaozi (ravioli in the shape of a small sack), Chinese Soup that warms the heart, classic, but rich sautéed Rice and then four main courses ( Beef, Duck and fatty fish such as the yellow grouper, in addition to Taro in batter), specifically planned for the famous Valpolicella red wine. The pastry chef, Sonia Latorre Ruiz, has prepared the dessert, Lao Hu-La Tigre, a contemporary homage to 2022, and, like wine, a perfect Western combination to conclude the New Year’s banquet. Culturally, at a Chinese meal, the dishes on the menu are served simultaneously and shared. So, it is difficult to think of pairing to a single dish. At Bon Wei, member of the fine dining restaurant panorama, designed by the architect, Carlo Samarati, according to custom in contemporary China, the pattern has been upended and the dishes will be presented in sequence according to Western custom (and there will be three different cooking methods: boiling, frying and baking).
Following the cunning Rat (2020) and the resilient Buffalo (2021), the Year of the Tiger in 2022 is also a rare occurrence in the Chinese horoscope. It is the Water Tiger, which occurs only every 60 years (one of the 5 natural elements occurs every 12 years). Chinese cuisine, instead, is not a rarity. As a quote from the film, “Pane e Tulipani” (bread and tulips) by Silvio Soldini stated, “I am sorry to contradict you but the Chinese are the greatest restaurateurs in the world”. That was more than 20 years ago. Chinese cuisine is universally recognized today, and has effectively entered the elite of starred and quality catering, boasting a thousand-year tradition. It follows tradition and at the same time its dishes, but not only, are experimental and innovative. Chinese restaurant menus also offer very interesting combinations with wines, a choice that is being increasingly sought after. The rapidly growing trend has been confirmed in the activities of some Consortiums, such as Lambrusco of Reggio Emilia, which is more and more boosting precisely combinations with Asian cuisine. Mu Fish - taste Oriental, a well-known restaurant in Milan, and a place of creative ferment and unexpected flavors, has prepared an entire ad hoc menu including pairings with the wines in its cellars for Chinese New Year 2022. Further, the meeting with Reggiano Lambrusco DOC Spumante Rubino del Cerro by Venturini Baldini, historic Estate in Quattro Castella, lands which once belonged to Matilde of Canossa, goes well with mixed artisanal Dim sum and Nigiri alternating Ventresca of salmon, dill and Maldon salt, as well as grilled goose with citrus juices and Hungarian foie gras or Amberjack and Yuzu sauce. Meanwhile, from the West to the East, New Wave by Da Vittorio officially opened on January 20th. It is the first art museum/ restaurant of the Cerea family in Ucca Edge in Shanghai, the result of the synergy between two absolutely excellent companies in their respective fields. On the one hand, Ucca Group, one of the main Chinese cultural institutions active in the country. On the other, the Da Vittorio Group, which thus has inaugurated its second brand in Asia. Chef Francesco Bonvini acquired his experience in the “parent company” in Brusaporto, and as sous chef of Da Vittorio Shanghai. Under the guidance of the executive Chefs, Chicco and Bobo Cerea, and the supervision of the executive chef of the Shanghai brand, Stefano Bacchelli, he has designed a surprising and intriguing menu for the restaurant, to be enjoyed in a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere. Alongside him, an exceptional team including sous chefs, Niccolò Rotella and John Zhang, the head sommelier, Camilla Mora, the bar manager, Fabio Sajeva and the restaurant manager, Vincent Tang. The wine list includes almost 300 Italian and international wines, offered in combination to limited edition dishes, inspired by the art works exhibited, to extend the aesthetic enjoyment of the taste buds. Moreover, one of the best Chinese art museums is in the same space. Thus, it will be possible to admire world-class works of art and at the same time taste the exquisite Italian culinary and wine tradition, connecting the culture of food, artistic design and spatial aesthetics (curated by Linehouse Design Office), in a single sensory journey. It will be an excellent portrait of contemporary urban life in China, in the context of globalization.
A perfect combination, therefore, between companies of ancient history and contemporary inspirations.