Assoenologi: “Italian wine is the irreplaceable leader of our Country’s future”

The Assoenologi Conference 2025 was held recently in Agrigento, one of the iconic locations on the Sicily wine continent, where the vine intertwines with its millenary history. The closing message, which also summarizes the conference, stated, “Italian wine, due to its tradition and innovation, is and remains an irreplaceable leader in our Country’s future”. And, the message continued to include the delicate ongoing discussion about wine and health, in a period in which the market is not at its best, due to tariffs and changes in consumption habits, as well as the impact of the Highway Code reform (there was a breathalyzer on stage, which Santo Puccia, Senior Director of the State Police demonstrated how to use), and a historical period that is questioning the “identity”, not only of the wines, but also of the places where they are produced, trying to find a balance between the well-being of those who live and work there, and tourism. There were many illustrious speakers on stage, including Chef Gianfranco Vissani, the former footballer. Andrea Barzagli, who produces wine in Sicily at Cantina Casematte in Messina, the food and wine journalist Carlo Cambi, the CEO of Marchesi Antinori, Renzo Cotarella, to name a few. The Prime Minister, Giorgia Meloni, and the Minister of Agriculture, Francesco Lollobrigida also participated.
Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food, gave one of the most significant speeches and launched a strong message, stating, “it is no longer possible to ignore that we urgently need a paradigm shift. The land is an integral part of the food system, and our task is to protect it. There is a lot of talk about sustainability, but we must ask ourselves, are we really doing everything that is necessary?”. Petrini emphasized that environmental threats require specific choices. “We are heading towards a point of no return, and we must be prepared not only to limit the damage, but also to reverse the trend. Producers have a direct responsibility, that is, every supply chain, starting with wine-growing, must be built on respect for the land and for those who work it”. He mentioned the fundamental passage also on the future of wine. “Wine is not only gross domestic product, wine is culture, landscape, sustainable economy. It must be a symbol of quality that does not destroy the territory, but enhances it, and that guarantees dignity and fair wages to those who work in the fields”.
The speeches were moderated by the journalist and wine producer, Bruno Vespa, and also by Luciano Ferraro, deputy director of “Corriere della Sera”. The MEP Dario Nardella, recalled, “among the many priorities in the European Parliament, especially in the Agriculture Committee, we are dealing a lot with the topic of wine, because this sector, which represents a specificity of many European Countries, including Italy, is now facing important challenges. For instance, the drop in consumption, especially of red wine, the uncertainty of American tariffs, bureaucratic difficulties, and the impact of climate change. We have the “Wine Package”, which provides simplification, support for uprooting, and tools to promote our wines on new markets, such as South America, India and South-East Asia. We must focus on innovation, communication and structural promotion. We must also avoid alarmism on labeling and defend wine as a positive European ambassador around the world. Together we can do it”. Riccardo Cotarella, president of Assoenologi said that this 78th edition of the Conference was“ an edition that will remain engraved in the memory due to the quality of the content, the level of the speeches and the climate of discussion and cohesion that it created. We have lived three intense days in the name of culture, science, dialogue and passion for wine. Wine has once again been confirmed an excellent product and a symbol of our identity, our economy and, above all, of a healthy and conscious lifestyle. We reiterated it loudly - wine, when consumed intelligently and in moderation, is good for the heart, good for health and good for society. This is the scientific truth that we have always defended, against any attempt at demonization or ideological simplification”.