“Sos Marzemino”: Vallagarina producers and institutions of the territory stand together

If it is true that certain grape varieties identify specific territories, and that some territories build compelling narratives and effective communication around the unique bond with one or more of the varieties cultivated there, then Marzemino from Vallagarina, in Trentino, is an example of it. For nearly a quarter of a century, this region has celebrated its “flagship grape variety” - and, among the symbolic varieties of Trentino viticulture - with “La Vigna Eccellente”, an award for the best Marzemino vineyard in Isera., in a rich calendar of tastings and experiences aimed at promoting knowledge and appreciation of the grape. However, the red wine famously praised in “Don Giovanni” by Mozart, thanks to librettist Lorenzo Da Ponte, is not currently enjoying a particularly prosperous period. To secure its future, producers from Vallagarina and local institutions plan to form an association by the end of 2025 to revive the grape and prevent it from falling into obscurity.
“The 1990s, when Marzemino was the top-selling red wine in Trentino thanks to the quality alignment initiated with the founding of the voluntary protection consortium in 1982, are long gone - explained to Winenews Mauro Baldessari, the promoter of the upcoming association, vicepresident of Casa del Vino della Vallagarina, and president of Vivallis -  since then, there has been a quantitative decline, and Marzemino now represents only 2% of Trentino’s wine production. Yet in the three municipalities of Nogaredo, Isera, and Volano, classic areas for its cultivation, it accounts for up to 40% of vineyard surface area and over 25% of the total vineyard hectares on average. Further analysis with Marco Tonini, winemaker and president of Casa del Vino della Vallagarina, revealed that nearly 90% of Marzemino is produced by member companies of Casa del Vino di Isera (which reunites 35 companies and institutional members such as 8 municipalities and the Rovereto and Vallagarina tourism board). We started with a small core group and, through public meetings at Casa del Vino, brought together around twenty producers, including the four main players and the Province of Trento through Trentino Marketing and the Wine Consortium, who expressed willingness to fund substantial projects”. The four key players are Cavit, the largest bottler, producing 700,000 to 800,000 bottles of Marzemino out of a total of 2 million; and, still, Vivallis, Cantina di Isera, and Cantina di Trento (with Concilio).
“The main goal of the association - concluded Baldessari - will be to develop communication suited to today’s changing times and capable of reaching younger audiences. We need a communication that places Marzemino where it belongs among Trentino’s local grape wines, which have great potential in today’s market that favors aromatic, low-tannin, highly drinkable reds. We are fairly skilled in the vineyard and cellar though there’s always room for technical improvement, but for communication, we need to rely on experts”.
Reflecting the times, the 2025 edition of “La Vigna Eccellente” - while maintaining its festive elements and suspending the award for best vineyard this year - has become a laboratory of ideas to shape the future of Vallagarina. It focuses on professional training, with two courses for “Marzemino Ambassadors”, and discussions on highly relevant topics. A deep and current analysis of sustainability, in all its facets including social sustainability was presented by Ada Balzan, CEO ceo Arb Sb Sustainability Consulting: under the lens, the opportunities and challenges of achieving true sustainability in the wine sector and how to communicate it effectively. Alessandro De Bertolini of the Trentino Historical Museum Foundation gave a passionate presentation on the role of farmers as designers and guardians of Alpine landscapes, which also featured an intervention by landscape anthropologist professor Annibale Salsa. Producers Albino Armani and Elisabetta Foradori, along with Brentonico’s mayor Mauro Tonolli, discussed the development of high-altitude viticulture in the fragile territories of Monte Baldo and the initiatives the municipality is undertaking to involve all stakeholders, including the local population, in a proactive and operational wine development plan. Finally, a presentation by Mariano Murru, winemaker at Sardinian winery Argiolas and president of Assoenologi Sardegna, and Silvano Ceolin, president of Comitato per la Tutela del Piede Franco - Committee for the Protection of Ungrafted Vines, addressed the importance of preserving old ungrafted vines still reachable across Italy to safeguard biodiversity and genetic heritage, of which they are bearers, and, on the other hand, the necessity for clear regulations for new ungrafted vine plantings.