NASTY RUMORS SPREAD IN MONTALCINO – AN INVESTIGATION INTO SUSPICIONS OF BLENDED BRUNELLOS AND MIXED VINEYARDS

According to various rumors, an investigation has begun in regards to suspicions that vineyards belonging to the Brunello denomination may have blended the 2003 vintage with wines from Southern Italy and planted grape varietals other than the permitted Sangiovese in vineyards. And anti-fraud units and the Italian Finance police have confiscated documents from the Brunello Consortium.

The Brunello di Montalcino Consortium, however, has affirmed that, in accordance with the “Era omnes” law – the ministerial decree of May 2002 that allows Consortiums to make their own quality controls on vineyards and wineries – it has already made a vast and articulated control of 100% of its pertaining vineyards. And, it appears, that over 99% of the vineyards that are owned by 250 different producers, have checked out as conforming to all of the Consortium’s rules. The Consortium thus confirms that it has been capable of ensuring that all of its producers, both large and small, have respected all rules and regulations of this prestigious denomination.

James Suckling (Wine Spectator) Offers His Opinion in the Blog Smoke and Fire in Montalcino, Posted: 02:48 pm et, March 21, 2008

Rumors spread fast in Italy, just like any other wine region. I think a lot arise from jealousy among wine producers. I really hate it ... But sometimes there is some truth to them. The most recent rumor is how about one-third of the producers in Montalcino are being investigated for blending wines from the south of Italy into their 2003 Brunellos.
I was shocked, to say the least, even completely pissed off. How could Brunello producers do such a thing after years of building their region’s reputation as one of the best in Italy? Plus, it’s one of my favorite wine regions in the world! They appear to just be rumors.
And apparently there is no basis for such terrible hearsay, at least that’s what my sources say. Granted, there is an investigation at the moment being conducted by the growers association in Montalcino to check that all vineyards under the Brunello di Montalcino Docg (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) are abiding by the regulations of Italy’s highest quality wine designation. In other words, they are confirming that all the grapes in these vineyards are in fact Sangiovese. Brunello must be pure Sangiovese, according to the law.
The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino would not comment on its findings. But solid sources in the region say a number of vineyards have been found with a tiny percentage of other grape types in their vineyards, from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to Chardonnay and Trebbiano. I don’t know how widespread this problem is, and the Consorzio will reveal its findings when the investigation is done. But I don’t think is going to be a big deal.
The vines can be changed over to Sangiovese. It’s possible that a wine producer could have intentionally planted other grape types to boost the color, structure and fruitiness of Brunello. Sangiovese can be a bit thin at times, and Brunello is aged for a long time in barrel or vat before bottling.
It’s legal to have other grapes in areas such as Chanti Classico, and many super Tuscan producers do the same with their Sangiovese. But, my sources say that it is most likely an honest mistake whereby the wrong bench grafts of vines were used when the vineyards were originally planted.