Between the nectar of Bacchus and the Dante’s descendants, it is true love, and perhaps fate has played a part choosing February 14th Valentine’s Day, to celebrate the start of the “Previews” of the great wines of Tuscany.
And if the color of love is pink, there seems to be a bit more of an optimistic outlook in 2010 for all the great names of the Grand Duchy, especially in export which strongly affects the overall market: Chianti Classico sees 74% of production fly over the border; the Nobile of Montepulciano 68%, and Brunello of Montalcino, 60%. Besides the market, that has registered a slight turnaround in profit after the troubled 2009, the quality of productions, pending the various rating will be good and very good for all denominations.
Nobile of Montepulciano will be the first to be previewed on 14, 15 and 18 February in the city of Poliziano. Then Gallo Nero, with the “Chianti Classico Collection” on 16 and 17 February, at the "Stazione Leopolda" in Florence, and then the Montalcino wines, with “Benvenuto Brunello (Welcome Brunello)”, February 19 to 22. And for white wine lovers, don’t forget Vernaccia of San Gimignano, the historical wine mentioned by Dante Alighieri in the “Divine Comedy”, which exports 30% of the 5 million bottles produced each year, and will debut new vintages on February 15.
Focus – “Preview Nobile”
Exports represent the highest percentage in sales of Nobile of Montepulciano in 2009, with 68% of bottles sold. The remaining 32% are destined for the domestic market of Tuscany (40%) and Lombardy (15%) in the lead.
In particular, exports are directed to European countries (70%), with Germany (28%) and Switzerland (26%) as major markets, but quotas are increasing for the UK (5% in 2008) and the North European countries. There has been a significant increase also on the U.S. market, which in 2009 accounted for 18% of exports, with a +8% over 2008. The conquest continues towards emerging markets (15%), particularly the Asian countries (10%).
The precious red DOCG wine prepares the way to the “Preview” in Piazza Grande in Montepulciano. The 2007 vintage which is ready to be placed on the market after two years of aging imposed by production rules will be tasted along with the 2006 Reserve, both 5 stars, pending assessment of the 2009 vintage. The following 29 wineries are the protagonists: from Avignonesi to Bindella, Boscarelli to Canneto, Carpineto to Triacca Winery, Contucci to Croce di Febo to Dei, Fassi, Fattoria del Cerro, Gattavecchi, Godiolo, Icarus, The Poggialgallo Estates, The Braccesca, The Ciarliana, The Bèrne, Lodola Nuova, Nottola, Poliziano, Salcheto, Angelini Estates, Tenuta Gracciano della Seta, Tenuta Il Faggeto, Tenuta Valdipiatta, Terra Antica, Vecchia Cantina, Villa Saint Anna. More than 10.5 million bottles between Nobile and Rosso of Montepulciano were put on the market in 2009. The asset value of the vineyards was estimated around 200 million euros and the production value around 60 million euros per year. The wineries in Montepulciano have a very strong workforce with about 1,000 workers in the industry plus the seasonal workers and related activities (the wine sector covers around 70% of the economy)
Info: www.consorziovinonobile.it
Focus – “Chianti Classico Collection”
Besides the preview of 2009, 2008 and 2007 Reserve, the ”Chianti Classico Collection” on stage at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence on 17 and 18 February, this will also be an opportunity to celebrate a breakthrough that has been 78 years in coming: a kind of “Chianti divorce” – in the Chianti Classico area only Gallo Nero wine will be able to be produced and no other Chianti wines. “This solution effectively separates the Chianti Classico from all other Chianti wines”, says Giuseppe Liberatore, director of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, ”finally breaking the umbilical cord between two different wines without legal battles or solutions that are not unanimously shared, but with a mutual awareness of their differences and originality. This is definitely an historic moment”.
This is a measure that formalizes- no ifs, ands or buts- the exclusive recognition that the wines from Chianti Classico area are distinct from the other Chianti wines all over Tuscany. Meanwhile, the year 2009 promises to be “a very high general level, with points of real excellence,” says the president of the Consortium, Marco Pallanti, “crowning a trend that has lasted since at least 2004 with vintages which have always been very good or excellent, and that we had not seen even in the ‘80s”. There is something to be optimistic about, therefore, not only for the quality of the product but it also appears that the worst is over for the market, and the last months of 2009 have made a positive turnaround. Export is still fundamental for Gallo Nero wine: the United States imports 28% of production, followed by Italy at 26%, (a decrease of 1% over 2008). Germany is in third place with an increase from 10% to 12%, then Great Britain, Switzerland, Canada, Japan and Russia. “The appreciation that the U.S. and consumers around the world show us whenever they come into contact with the unique character of our wines is a guarantee against any economic storm” adds Pallanti.
Despite a 15% decline in sales and an overall price decrease of 30%, the food “district” of the Chianti Classico area limited the damage. The future looks strong for an acknowledged quality product and “big business” numbers: turnover estimated at over 500 million euros with a bottled wine production value of 360 million euros; olive production 10 million euros; other agricultural crops estimated at 90 million euros; the average turnover of vacation farm houses 75 million euros; 70.000 hectares, of which 7.200 Chianti Classico vineyards and 10,000 planted with olive trees.
Info: www.chianticlassico.com
Focus – “Benvenuto Brunello”
Montalcino will close the “Previews” of Tuscan wines from 19 to 22 February, when the Brunello 2005, the Reserve in 2004 and Rosso 2008 will be unveiled: 10.5 million bottles produced each year (6,5 million Brunello and 4 Rosso). 60% are put on foreign shelves, for a turnover of 140 million euros. While awaiting the announcement of the 2009 vintage “stars” of however, we know they will be very high quality.
Info: www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it
Focus – How’s the market? Henry Viglierchio, GM of Castello Banfi responds
Positive signals for 2010 also come from the land of Brunello, explains Henry Viglierchio, General Manager of Castello Banfi, the company that put Brunello of Montalcino wine on shelves around the world and created the business district of Brunello. After a difficult 2009, markets have adjusted and the phenomenon of recovery in stocks has significantly affected all the major International markets, although obviously the situation still shows uncertainties. “We are again dealing with a picture made of light and shadows”, explains Enrico Viglierchio, General Manager of Castello Banfi, “but what looks fairly certain is that Montalcino leaves the difficult year of 2009 in admirable fashion. The Territory has had to face, for the first time in its young history, an International economic crisis, not with a few hundreds of thousands of bottles to sell, but with a few million. However, despite price pressures, and some problems of overproduction, the International markets have continued to demand Brunello which seems to have kept its appeal even considering the crises encountered before the economic crisis arrived”.
The leader winery in the Montalcino territory, American-owned (by the Mariani family), whose target markets are the United States (35%) and Italy (30%), reported an essentially quiet start of the year. There have been signs of “suffering in some European markets, including Italy, that were late in showing interest in the effects of the crisis, ”comments Viglierchio, “as signs of recovery come from Asian markets, where the phase of realigning stocks seems surpassed and they are now in the phase of reorders. In America, the market remains fairly tight, with a good sales performance of wines under $30.00, while those over $50.00 are still having sales difficulties. Further complicating the picture,” says the GM of Castello Banfi, “is the unfavorable exchange rate and aggressive trade policies by competitors in the New World”.
In terms of forecasts, the GM of Castello Banfi maintains a fair dose of caution: “2010 will be difficult to decipher and building medium to long term scenarios is complicated. One thing is certain,” adds Viglierchio, “this new year must be used to strengthen our brand and to work in synergy with the territory of Montalcino, but also to understand the crisis of 2009 and redesign the market dynamics better by implementing new strategies that can build solid foundations for the future”.
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