Safeguarding identity while looking to innovation: Nero d’Avola opens up to the future

A project that takes a decisive step towards extended production models, bringing innovation and sustainability, and responding to climate change and changing consumer demands, without sacrificing the identity of Nero d’Avola, addressing four areas: technological strategies for alcohol reduction, microbiological strategies, the use of amphorae for maceration and aging, and the study of Nero d’Avola biodiversity. InnoNda (an acronym for Nero d’Avola Innovation) has just come to an end. Launched in April 2024, it explored new production strategies for wines made from Nero d’Avola, focusing on research, investigating unexplored or under-explored aspects, but also consolidating existing knowledge to write new pages in the name of contemporaneity.
This project was conceived within a complex general context. Temperatures observed in Western Europe and the Mediterranean over the last two decades have shown estimated average increases of around 1 and 2 degrees Celsius. For wine producers, the direct consequence is an increase in the sugar content of the must, and therefore in the alcohol content of the wines. In addition, “extreme” weather events are becoming increasingly frequent, in particular long periods of drought exacerbated by heat stress. On the consumer side, however, there is a growing demand for wines with lower alcohol content. There are various reasons for this. First of all, for health reasons, and secondly, due to stringent legal requirements. But in general, statistics show that consumers are increasingly attentive to production according to sustainability criteria and product quality.
This combination of factors - natural, social, and perhaps trend - while seemingly unfavorable to wine production, could instead lead to the identification of new objectives and market growth, with interventions starting in the vineyard. Recent studies have confirmed that native grape varieties and older vineyards may be less sensitive to climatic stress and, above all, to water shortages. If this is combined with so-called “precision winemaking” according to sustainability criteria, very good results could be achieved in line with the strategic objectives of the OIV-International Organization of Vine and Wine. Sicilian regional institutions have therefore assessed these changes and this possible market evolution, identifying a number of areas for research. The management and control of alcohol content, particularly in relation to the production of red wines, could be of great benefit in addressing future changes.
“InnoNda”, which saw Assovini Sicilia (an association that brings together over 100 of the island’s most virtuous wineries) led by Mariangela Cambria at the forefront, in collaboration with the University of Milan (with professors Daniela Fracassetti and Ileana Vigentini), and the Isvea laboratories, with the involvement of four wineries such as Tenuta Rapitalà (part of the Gruppo Italiano Vini - Giv), Dimore di Giurfo, Feudi del Pisciotto, and Tenute Lombardo, focused on investigating the agronomic and oenological techniques that allow wines with a lower alcohol content to be obtained (one of the current trends in consumption, ed.), while preserving the distinctive characteristics of the Nero d’Avola variety, the most famous of Sicily’s native red grape varieties. This stimulating challenge also included activities aimed at diversifying production through the use of terracotta amphorae and the evaluation of the diversity of the Nero d’Avola grape variety in Sicily. Funded under Sub-measure 16.1 of the 2014-2022 Sicilian Rural Development Program, the project included two so-called “Country Days” held at Feudi del Pisciotto and Tenuta Rapitalà, where the results of the research were presented in recent days. As regards technological strategies for reducing alcohol content, physical and membrane techniques for removing ethanol have been tested, such as vacuum evaporation, reverse osmosis, and membrane contactors, in order to obtain Nero d’Avola with lower alcohol content while maintaining quality and sensory identity. The research also highlighted how wines aged in wood retain their structure and complexity better than wines aged in steel. The use of membrane technologies was also evaluated, which allow the loss of fruity and floral aromas to be limited, resulting in balanced and pleasant wines. With regard to microbiological strategies, the research investigated the behavior of non-Saccharomyces yeasts in combination with the well-known Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The study observed how these microbial consortia allow the alcohol content to be reduced by up to 2%, improving the aromatic intensity and fruity and floral notes, which are very important for Nero d’Avola. Research has been launched using the Adaptive Laboratory Evolution (ALE) technique, which will enable the selection of yeast strains (non-GMO) capable of producing less ethanol and more glycerol, improving the smooth and rounded sensations of the wine.
With regard to the use of amphorae for maceration and aging, the project verified the impact of terracotta (wine amphorae of various degrees of porosity, traditionally made by firing clay) on winemaking. The study highlighted the effectiveness of enhancing spicy, balsamic, and vegetal notes, and long macerations also led to particularly elegant and less bitter profiles. For aging, the use of amphorae with different porosity allowed for more persistent, floral, and fruity wines, especially when compared to steel production. Finally, turning to the study of the biodiversity of Nero d’Avola, the “InnoNda” project has demonstrated the genetic and phenolic richness of Sicilian Nero d’Avola. Compared to younger vines, older vines seem to maintain higher acidity levels and a better concentration of anthocyanins and flavonoids, all of which are decisive factors in determining the color and structure, but also the longevity of a wine. Spontaneous fermentation also highlights a rich, diverse microbiota linked to the territory. These are distinctive elements that characterize the aromatic profile of wines.
“InnoNda” is “a complex wine research project”, said Mariangela Cambria, president of Assovini Sicilia, “but also a concrete example of how collaboration between businesses and universities can generate innovation that benefits the entire sector. The project shines a spotlight on some difficult issues that Sicilian wine companies may face in the future. At the same time, it suggests some solutions in the competitive arena, without betraying the identity of the grape variety”. According to Daniela Fracassetti, scientific director of the project, “InnoNda” has “demonstrated the concrete possibility of reducing alcohol in Nero d’Avola wines, thus responding to the growing demand for low-alcohol wines and offering an effective strategy to combat the effects of climate change. The use of amphorae proved to be suitable for the vinification of Nero d’Avola, enhancing its typical sensory characteristics. Furthermore, the differences observed in the composition of the musts obtained from vineyards of different ages and origins indicate the importance of terroir and the age of the vines on the final quality of the wine. The combination of innovative techniques, reduced alcohol content, and enhancement of regional characteristics contributes to enriching knowledge about Nero d’Avola and strengthening the identity of Sicilian viticulture. Given the promising results achieved in just over a year of activity, it is desirable to continue research to consolidate and deepen the evidence obtained.