Wine in Piedmont, exports on 2023 hold, thanks to big reds. With a positive 2024 harvest

The great reds of the Langhe, from Barolo to Barbaresco, to the other expressions of Nebbiolo, but also of Monferrato, the realm of Barbera, and Roero, a Unesco World Heritage Site, as are the “Underground Cathedrals” of Canelli, in whose heart Asti is born, without forgetting the tumultuous growth of the bubbles of Alta Langa, or the great whites of the Gavi territory, Arneis, Colli Tortonesi and beyond. Piedmont, thanks to a very high quality recognized around the world, and a great variety of productions (with 60 appellations, 19 DOCG and 41 DOC covering 83% of the regional production, almost all of which is linked to historical native grape varieties, such as Arneis, Cortese, Erbaluce, Favorita, Moscato Bianco, Nascetta and Timorasso for the white varieties, Barbera, Brachetto, Dolcetto, Freisa, Grignolino, Malvasia, Nebbiolo, Ruché, Pelaverga and Vespolina, for the red varieties), it is undoubtedly one of the most important wine regions in Italy and the world. A diversity that will be told at “Grandi Langhe,” the event organized by the Consortium of Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe Dogliani, led by Ettore Germano, and the Consortium of Roero, chaired by Massimo Damonte, in collaboration with Piemonte Land Of Wine, which features Francesco Monchiero at the helm, January 27 and 28, at the Officine Grandi Riparazioni (Ogr), in Turin, with more than 500 wineries from all over the region. This greets a 2024 vintage that is all in all positive and slightly up on 2023 (+5%, for more than 2.25 million hectoliters, of which 2.1 of PDO wine) and an export that all in all holds (-0.4% in the first 9 months of 2024 on 2023, to 847.9 million euros), with the big reds that, in contrast to a general trend that sees the type suffering, are growing. This was highlighted by the presentation of “The Wine Year in Piedmont” 2024, the annual publication edited by Vignaioli Piemontesi and Regione Piemonte, which was staged in Grinzane Cavour in recent days. At the economic level, Piedmont is confirmed as Italy's second largest region in terms of export value, at 1.2 billion euros in 2023 (an export that involves 60% of the wine produced in Piedmont, 70% of which goes to EU countries and 30% to non-EU countries), and with the first 9 months of 2024 showing a -0.4% on the same period in 2023 (a year that, overall, saw cross-border sales of Piedmont wines retreat by almost 6%).
In this scenario, explained the Wine Monitor - Nomisma figures illustrated by Denis Pantini, Piedmontese PDO reds are growing by 1% in value (compared to +4.4% in volume), driven by a strong recovery in Canada (+49%) and important growth in Sweden (+14%), Japan and the United States (+10% both). Below par, however, Asti Spumante (-1.7%), dragged down by Germany (-9%), Austria (-14%) and Poland (-20%). On the other hand, exports to Russia are running (+51%), although an important role in this race was played by the Putin government’s decision to increase excise taxes on wines, a decision that made importers “accelerate” their purchases in the first part of the year.
“Beyond geopolitical tensions and the effects on international trade (now also threatened by Trump’s tariffs), it is clear that the impacts on wine consumption”, Nomisma pointed out, “stem from structural changes in consumers’ approach. The main drivers that seem to drive wine purchases in Italy can be traced back to a greater attention to sustainability, healthiness and interest in wine territories. This is expressed in consumer interest in organic, sustainable wines made from indigenous grape varieties, but especially in wines with lower alcohol content (when not dealcoholic). These are trends that are also reflected in other world markets, such as in the United States, where the increased focus on sustainability and alcohol content is combined with interest in mixology, which is particularly popular among the younger generation”.
In this context, the 2024 grape harvest report also fits in, with a “grape harvest returned to normal, between September and October. Among vineyards in Piedmont, wine production is estimated to have increased by 5% over the previous year to more than 2.25 million hectoliters. In Italy, 2024 production is estimated at 41 million hectoliters (up 7% on the year before)”. Based on the analyses and evaluations regularly conducted by the technical service of Vignaioli Piemontesi, the vintage can be rated overall as more than fair. The technicians assign “eight and a half stars” to Sauvignon Blanc; “eight stars” to Brachetto, Pelaverga, Ruché, and Chardonnay; “seven and a half stars” to Cortese, Erbaluce, Favorita, Moscato, Barbera, Freisa, Nebbiolo, Vespolina, and Pinot Noir; “seven stars” to Arneis, Timorasso, Nascetta, and Grignolino; and “six and a half” to Dolcetto. “The most appreciable character of 2024”, the technicians argue, “could be that of “downsized” alcoholic potencies also more in tune with new market demands”.
The final figure on hectares planted with vines will be available in January, when harvest declarations are completed, but it is estimated to be 44,471 hectares planted with vines in Piedmont, up slightly on last year, when, for the first time since 2017, they declined from 45,823 hectares in 2022 to 44,285. Analyzing the trend of the last ten years (2013-2022), the Piedmont vineyard has shown an overall stable situation, with progressive growth until 2022. In 2013, the area planted with vines was 44,169 hectares, decreased in 2014 to 43,893 and in 2015 to 43,553, then stabilized at 43,500 in 2016. Since 2017, an upward trend began: 44,202 hectares in 2017, 44,449 in 2018, 44,677 in 2019, 44,737 in 2020, and reaching 45,420 hectares in 2021. 2022 marked a further increase to 45,823 hectares, largely recovering the area planted with vines lost in the past and marking a marked improvement over 2013 levels. Estimated production of appellation of origin wines is 2.1 million hectoliters.
“Wine is at the center of the vision I have in mind for the development of agriculture in Piedmont. With this legislature”, said Piedmont Region Agriculture Councillor Paolo Bongioanni, “the regional delegations to Commerce, Agriculture and Food, Hunting and Fishing, and Parks are in fact brought together for the first time in a single department. They are all closely interconnected sectors when seen from a perspective of developing territories, enhancing the culture of taste and increasing the food and wine tourism that revolves around it. But they are above all the expression of excellence that Piedmont knows how to offer at an absolute level, and which I intend for this reason to develop in an organic design. With the 750 million euros in the 2023-27 Rural Development Complement, the region is renewing its long-standing support for the agricultural enterprise, consortia, and regional wine shops, from the vineyard to final promotion. At the same time, however, we are shaping an unprecedented qualitative leap in the enhancement of Piedmontese agribusiness: the short supply chain revolution. A paradigm shift designed to enhance in an increasingly effective and profitable way our foods and wines and together the territories from which they are born, connecting in a flywheel producers, food and trade districts, consortia, traditional markets and those great ambassadors of taste that are our restaurateurs and chefs”.
“Piedmont is confirmed as one of the leading regions nationwide”, added Piedmont Region Tourism Councillor Marina Chiarelli, “in terms of production and turnover in the wine sector. The significant impact even on international markets is the result of a synergy between tradition and innovation. These are values that make Piedmontese wines a heritage appreciated all over the world, and our commitment is to continue to promote and support this excellence. We want to strengthen the presence of our Piedmont in global markets to enhance our extraordinary local products that attract quality tourism thanks to a hospitality system that in recent years has taken up the challenge of internationalization”.
“The wine year that just ended saw us produce more, but not without great difficulty”, said Giulio Porzio of Vignaioli Piemontesi, “especially in reaching harvest due to heavy rains. On the economic sustainability front, however, our sector is still far from an optimal situation. Markets and consumption are changing rapidly, and this requires a quicker and more decisive approach to addressing the issues we face. We need to review our strategies with an overall vision, as a cohesive team. In this context, the role of the region becomes crucial: it needs to play a leading role in strategic choices, promoting the use of our products and supporting local producers. It is a time when courage is needed to believe in our work and bet on the future of Piedmontese viticulture”.