“Recipe” of Vignaioli Indipendenti: produce what is needed and protect companies and territories

Their commitment is, above all, to safeguard and promote their territories, among the most “fragile” ones and at risk of depopulation in Italy where agriculture is often the main source of income. The Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) is therefore a central issue for Federazione Italiana dei Vignaioli Indipendenti - the Italian Federation of Independent Winemakers (Fivi), the small producers of Italy, who manage the entire wine production cycle: from the vineyard (10 hectares on average) to the cellar, from bottling to marketing - this is especially true today, as the debate over European resources allocated to the primary sector is increasingly more heated. For this reason, the topic was discussed at the conference “Il vino di domani: le sfide della nuova Pac, tra gestione delle produzioni e gestione del rischio” - “The wine of tomorrow: the challenges of the new CAP between production management and risk management” during their flagship event, “Mercato dei Vini dei Vignaioli Indipendenti” - “Market of Wines by Independent Vinegrowes”, whose edition No. 14 closed yesterday at BolognaFiere, featuring over 8,000 handcrafted, high-quality, terroir-driven wines for tasting, 1,000 winemakers from all Italian regions (whose voices on the effects of climate change will soon be featured in an online video by WineNews, ed), 3 delegations of European winemakers, and 28 olive growers. A 2025 edition which ended with more than 28,000 visitors, an increase over 2024, and prompted Fivi to declare: “Bologna is now a rule for Mercato dei Vini dei Vignaioli Indipendenti” - and BolognaFiere is increasingly becoming a wine “hub” hosting events such as Slow Wine Fair & Sana Food and the “Champagne Experience” by Excellence, ed - thanks to its strong bond with the city, where the Mercato has become a highly anticipated event, supported by “Fuori Mercato” events.
Coming back to the panel, it offered a shared reflection on the future programming of the CAP, in which also Minister of Agriculture Francesco Lollobrigida and European Parliament vicepresident Antonella Sberna, as well as Stefano Bonaccini, member of the EU Parliament Committee on Agriculture and Rural Development intervened. Samuel Masse, president of Cevi (Confederazione Europea Vignaioli Indipendenti - European Confederation of Independent Winemakers), focused on aligning production potential with market, climate, and territorial needs: “It is essential to find a balance - he said - produce what is needed, protect the land, and support family-run farms. The system of planting and replanting authorizations is the key tool to control vineyard growth and prevent overproduction. And, the “Wine Package”, currently under discussion, strengthens this system”.
Also Ignacio Sánchez Recarte, secretary general of Ceev (European Committee of Wine Companies, intervened): “in last years, the number of social, economic, and climate challenges has increased, jeopardizing the long-term sustainability of EU wine businesses - he explained - these changes have created significant imbalances in the wine sector and made short-term crisis measures necessary in some regions to overcome difficult situations. Such public interventions highlight a market imbalance which must be addressed with a more stable, forward-looking approach”.
Andrea Berti, dg of Asnacodi Italia, emphasized the importance of a proper approach to risk management, starting with an analysis of the economic and agronomic impact of climate change: “it is necessary to adapt with a conscious strategy, leveraging technology and making the best use of information and data to strengthen active defenses, while also protecting ourselves with insurance tools”.
Rita Babini, president of Fivi, took the opportunity to stress how “I Vignaioli” are “one of the fundamental pillars of the wine world” and that “representing the needs of our 1,800 members, and, more generally, all vertically integrated wine producers from vineyard to bottle, is both an honor and a great responsibility”, and to announce Fivi entry into Tavolo di Filiera Vino - the Wine Supply Chain Table, alongside Coldiretti, joining a group already composed of Alleanza Cooperative Agroalimentari, Assoenologi, Cia-Agricoltori Italiani, Confagricoltura, Copagri, Federdoc, Federvini, and Unione Italiana Vini (UIv). “A new chapter opens for the Italian wine system - affirms Babini - which now more than ever needs to harness all the energy, skills, and experience our sector offers. I want to thank the Table coordinator, Pietro Mastroberardino, and all the associations involved for sharing this vision and committing to the efforts needed to build the future of Italian wine together: which, it is worth remembering, represents the future of entire local economies, of the country inland areas, and of the rural landscape of Italy as it is known and loved worldwide”.
Returning to the Mercato, the masterclasses titled “Vino, vigne, Vignaioli: una storia di famiglia” - “Wine, vineyards, Vine growers: a family story” which explored several gems of Italian winemaking, from Moscato di Canelli to Cirò, from Teroldego Rotaliano to varieties such as Grechetto, Malvasia Puntinata, Bombino, and Montepulciano, organized in collaboration with Alma - the International School of Italian Cuisine founded by Gualtiero Marchesi in Colorno, with Fioi - Federazione Italiana Olivicoltori Indipendenti - Italian Federation of Independent Olive Growers, and Pau - Panificatori Agricoli Urbani - Urban Agricultural Bakers, all of which were sold out. Likewise, tastings by Regione Emilia-Romagna-Direzione Agricoltura - Emilia-Romagna Region - Direction Agriculture, headed by chef Carla Brigliadori to promote regional PDO and PGI products paired with local wines presented by Fivi Emilia-Romagna delegations: from Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia Dop - Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO to Vitellone Bianco dell’Appennino Centrale PGI, from Salumi Piacentini Dop - Piacenza PDO cured meats to Piadina Romagnola Igp - Romagna PGI flatbread, from Parmigiano Reggiano PDO to Marrone di Castel del Rio PGI, from Fossa Cheese of Sogliano PDO to Scalogno di Romagna Igp - Romagna PGI shallots, from Squacquerone di Romagna PDO to Prosciutto di Parma Dop - Parma Ham PDO and Aglio di Voghiera Dop - Voghiera Garlic PDO. But, the Region also promoted discussions on enhancing the quality vinegar supply chain and innovative strategies to address climate change effects in vineyards between adaptation and mitigationm starting with the documentary “Gradi” produced by Will Media in collaboration with Fivi. The “Mercato” also honored the winners of the “Vignaiolo come noi” award, given this year to Bologna-born writer Enrico Brizzi, author of the bestseller “Jack Frusciante è uscito dal gruppo” - “Jack Frusciante Has Left the Band”, and the “Leonildo Pieropan” award, which went to Paolo De Marchi, a Piedmontese winemaker and creator of the extraordinary story of Isole e Olena. But, the spirit of the “Mercato dei Vignaioli Indipendenti” spread throughout Bologna and its territory among wine shops, cellars, bistros, and wine bars of Amo - Associazione Mescitori Organizzati - Association of Organized Pourers, which are Fivi Affection Points, and with “Notte bianca della ristorazione” - the “White Night of Dining” organized by Fipe-Confcommercio Ascom Bologna, in a kind of “collective hug”.
“The success of this edition confirms once again the strength of the FIVI model and BolognaFiere ability to enhance its identity - concludes Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere - the growth in visitors, the quality of the audience, and the increasingly strong bond with the city tell us that this event has become very important for the region and for the entire sector. The energy of the winemakers, their stories, and their vision go straight to the heart of consumers and create an authentic community built on passion and expertise. We were right to invest in an event that looks ahead and, year after year, strengthens Bologna role as the capital of wine culture and wine tourism in Italy”.