Journey through diversity of Brunello di Montalcino among soils, terroir, wine eras and producers

A journey through different wine eras, diverse terroirs - the celebrated “quadrants” which define the “pyramid”, the geometric shape which ideally characterizes the territory of Montalcino (and which, perhaps, using more contemporary terminology, could be classified as “sub-zones” and/or “crus”) - and different producers, each with their own stylistic approaches and interpretative sensibilities. This is the most immediate meaning of the tasting held in recent days at Vinitaly 2026 in Verona, led by Master of Wine Gabriele Gorelli on behalf of the Brunello di Montalcino Wine Consortium. It was a structured and wide-ranging overview of one of the most significant red wines of Tuscany and of the entire Italian wine scene, as fascinating as it was full of surprises, where the challenge against time, the very quality that makes a wine truly great - is not always perfectly met.
Here, then, in the WineNews tastings, there is Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1985 by Il Poggione which, forty-one years after its release, displays all the slightly decadent charm of vin d’âge. Dried flowers and leaves mark the nose of Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1990 by Mastrojanni, with a sweet but somewhat subdued palate progression. Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva 1995 by Col d’Orcia is equally evolved, offering muted aromas evoking rhubarb, roots and red fruit in spirit, with a palate still shaken by a rather tough tannin. Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1995 by La Magia is perhaps not without a few technical lapses with dark, slightly muted aromas and a palate enlivened by occasional acidic flashes. Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999 by Fattoria dei Barbi shows a complex nose, with the palate marked by a very assertive tannin. Brunello di Montalcino Gualto Riserva 2006 by Camigliano, on the other hand, finds its own balance, still boasting clean, generally fresh fruit, with spicy touches and only faint hints of dried flowers. On the palate, the wine is dense yet well articulated, finishing cleanly and well-proportioned. Brunello di Montalcino Gli Angeli Riserva 2010 by La Gerla is already well into its evolutionary journey, with very open fruity aromas and a tightly knit palate progression. Brunello di Montalcino Diecianni Riserva 2015 by Le Chiuse shines decisively: a wine truly conceived to stand the test of time, offering a nose of vibrant fruit alongside flashes of flint and undergrowth, anticipating a dynamic, deep and juicy palate. Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015 by San Polo is very ripe on the nose, delivering intensely mature, open fruit with touches of chamomile and vanilla, followed by a palate that moves with warmth, power and breadth. The influence of oak is very evident in Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2020 by Altesino, an impeccably executed wine which also lines up floral, spicy and smoky nuances. On the palate, the wine is sweet, soft and continuous, ending in a well-balanced finish.