Wine, declining consumption and complex scenario. Even in the “female” vision of the sector

Wine consumption worldwide has dropped by 7.5% in 20 years. But if there are areas that have become somewhat disaffected with the nectar of Bacchus over time, there are others, such as the United States, Asia and Australia, where purchase volumes are growing. And positive signs, albeit in a difficult context, are also coming, it seems, from Italy (where consumption has fallen from 29.3 to 21.8 million hectoliters), and especially from young consumers who, by focusing on quality wines, sustainable, organic in the lead, and lighter, are increasing at least occasional consumption, with Millennials and Generation Z arriving at a 73% share. This is according to Nomisma Wine Monitor research, “Wine 5.0: the consumption revolution”, presented, yesterday, by Roberta Gabrielli at the Women of Wine World Forum no. 3, organized in Rome at Palazzo Grazioli by the Donne del Vino, now led by Daniela Mastroberardino, which gathered representatives of twelve associations that bring together wine experts, producers and professionals from all over the world with whom Italy, starting in 2019, under the chairmanship of Donatella Cinelli Colombini, has established an international network and signed a pact of collaboration.
Consumption trends analyzed by Nomisma show that the sustainability requirement for wine, in all its forms, including packaging, is becoming increasingly relevant. 85% of respondents believe that in the next three years organic wine will be the one with the highest growth in consumption. Similarly, 85% of respondents, with a peak of 93% in responses from young people born after 2000, regarding the prospects for consumption of wines that generally have a sustainability certification. People are also betting on the appeal of wines from native grape varieties (75%) and wines from small producers (79%). Also confirmed is the trend on low and no alcohol by young people: for 53% of Generation Z, the future is toward lower-alcohol wines, and 31% are betting on the growth of alcohol-free wines. But Limited Editions (indicated by 50% of those born after 2000) and wine in cans (11%) are also seen favorably, although the trend is more widespread abroad, with 40% of U.S. Millennials consuming this format. Packaging sustainability is also important, with 59% of Generation Z opting for lighter glass. Nomisma research also points out how wine tourism is a strength of Italy, with average spending in 2024 totaling 2.9 billion euros. And women entrepreneurs are protagonists in hospitality (76% of female employees are pink), marketing (80%) and agritourism activities (75%). Women are also increasingly prominent in wine consumption: in fact, the share has grown to 41.5%, up from 15.5% 8 years ago.
“We have realized that the many changes we are experiencing, go far beyond the economy, but are linked to epochal transformations”, noted Daniela Mastroberardino, president of Donne del Vino. “Although from different perspectives, the Old and New Worlds find each other on many common themes. Today more than ever, building a solid and collaborative network at the international level is essential to face new challenges and seize new opportunities. And with this in mind, we are excited to announce a major international tasting of the Donne del Vino wines of the world, to be held in 2025. It will be an opportunity to showcase the excellence of our wines, tell our stories, and strengthen the bonds that unite us. The future of wine is written together, and we are ready to do it”.
The forum was attended online by representatives of women's wine associations from different countries. Moderated by journalist and Latium delegate Manuela Zennaro, each brought her own view on the changes taking place in the sector, focusing on the new consumption trends of young people, everywhere marked by attention to quality, sustainability, lighter and fresher wines, and lighter packaging. And with a recommendation from all the speakers to involve young people more with effective communication, to be implemented especially through social media. “Lighter wines, with very low alcohol: more whites are chosen. Same on packaging: less and less corkless bottles, and the use of bag-in-box. Young people and women need more information. And women bring more innovation in communication, they buy and consume more wine”, Melanie Pfister, past president “Femme de Vin”, told from France.
“There is a contracting of consumption due to the economic crisis, but also a new focus on health. People are looking for cheaper wines. Millennials are the biggest consumers, but for them drinking wine means having an experience. Younger consumers prefer cocktails, wine for them is too complicated a drink for the new lifestyle”, Trixi Bannert of “Vinissima” from Germany said instead.
“In Argentina, the purchasing power of households today is less and therefore wine consumption has also been affected. In the 1970s Argentines consumed 91.8 liters per capita, in 2022 18 liters. New consumers are curious and demand freedom, freshness, lighter packaging and sustainability. We need a new communication code towards young people, to make them want to drink”, said Cristina Pandolfi of “Amuva” (Asociación Mujeres del Vino de Argentina).
“Young people are looking for premium beverages between $15 and $30. They want sustainability and drink wine on social occasions”, Jane Thomson of the “Fabulous Ladies’ Wine Society” pointed out from Australia.
“In 2023, we surveyed women and the news is good: 91% know Austrian wines. The under-30s (83%) drink Austrian wines. Women prefer wine, men prefer beer. We believe and bet a lot on wine tourism”, said for her part Heidi Schrock of “11 Frauen und ihre Weine”, from Austria.
From Canada, on the other hand, comes the testimony of Susana Ochoa Vega, of the “Canadian Women’s Wine Association”: “In Québec, the population is older and always asks for advice on everything; buying a house or a wine, they always need certainty. Young people between 18 and 40, on the other hand, follow social or websites. 72% consume wine with dinner; for aperitifs they prefer spirits or cocktails. Cider and beer are popular. The future? Low-alcohol wines and organic and natural wines”.
“Chile’s hectares are decreasing, but consumption remains stable. Young people represent 11% of wine drinkers and prefer easier drinking wines with low alcohol content, sweeter and fruitier. For women there still remains an important gender gap: 87% say they earn less than a man for equal work”, Cristina Alvarez Gonzalez, of the “Asociación de Mujeres del Vino Chile”, added further.
From the Big East comes, however, the testimony of Michelle Liu (“Women in Wine & Spirits Award”): “In China, wine remains a very small sector compared to other beverages: it represents less than 1 percent. Young people are more attracted to fruit-based cocktails and other drinks with a lot of flavor, they are very social, and this has had an impact on wine consumption: if wine wants to reach them, it has to reach them on social. Online wine purchases are very important and have surpassed in-store purchases. White wine consumption is growing, and those buying are mostly women”.
“We are wine producers with over 134 local varieties. There are 188 women producers out of a total of 1,364 winemakers. A sector worth 6 million euros. Young people drink lighter wines: rosé, bubbles and orange wine”, Sanja Muzaferija of “Women on Wine” told from Croatia.
“Young Georgians prefer red wine (34%) and orange wine (20%). We have a boom in wine tourism: more than 7 million visitors are expected in the next few years. Generation Z loves bottle-fermented Pet Nats. They are increasingly informed and educated”, told Tamara Gvaldze of the “Georgian Association of Women Winemakers”.
According to Nicky Grandorge, of “New Zealand Women in Wine”, “90% of the time local wines are consumed, but consumption has dropped by 20% in the last 20 years. What do 21- to 24-year-olds bring to a party? Alternative drinks to wine, possibly low alcohol”.
“We have a very high per capita consumption of alcohol: Peruvians prefer sweet and strong drinks. Chilean and Argentine wines are drunk, but also Spanish. Beer is in the top ten of drinks consumed. For young people, wine is too expensive; they consider it elite. But they love the pairing of wine and food, we need to work in this direction by talking to them on social media”, concluded from Peru Carmen Robatty Abrill de Moquillaza of ”Las Damas del Pisco”. So many testimonies, confirming that the scenario in which wine must move, in the near future, is much more complex than seen in the recent past.