Brunello di Montalcino 2020 in the glass: intriguing wines characterized by finesse and drinkability

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Italy’s top wines, and its success is enshrined mainly in exports, with the stars and stripes market playing the main driving role. And in a general context of shrinking wine sales - global performances in volume and value show negative signs at -8% and -7% respectively - Brunello closes the first nine months of 2024 with a growing trend of 5% in volume and 1% in value (Uiv Observatory data based on SipSource, see focus). In this situation, evidently subject to necessary and continuous monitoring, also with respect to the very strong incidence of extra-economic factors, comes the presentation of Brunello di Montalcino 2020: a preview that, despite the current uncertain context and the indelible memory of the “Covid vintage”, draws to some extent a comforting scenario. At least judging by the result in the glass. If the climatic trend of 2020 remains, in fact, embedded in a general context of constant atmospheric warming - 2020, although with average rainfall, was the fifth warmest year since 1955, with an average temperature anomaly of +0.8 degrees Celsius over 1981-2010 (Lamma Consortium data) - the vintage in question presented, from a viticultural point of view, appreciable characteristics in the decisive months for the harvest (June-October). Abundant rainfall and below average temperatures for the period in June, with July and August having maximum temperatures often above 30 degrees Celsius, but with a few days when they exceeded critical values above 35, while rainfall was concentrated in a few high-intensity events. September, on the other hand, had two phases: a first characterized by beautiful sunny and dry days with above-average temperatures, and a second marked by heavy rainfall and a drastic drop in temperatures, with October having temperatures initially above average and then below during the rest of the month, with rainfall events tending to be frequent. A fluctuating climatic trend, therefore, with a management that was certainly tricky (for example, in the choice of the time of harvest), but that - if well conducted - was able to give decidedly intriguing wines, thanks in part to the characteristics of Sangiovese, in difficulty with continuous heat, but very responsive in transforming any climatic element in the name of freshness (rain and lower temperatures) in its path to maturity.
And this is what seems to have happened, in general, for the 2020 Brunellos, which also reveal another significant element: that of stylistic change, which is becoming increasingly homogeneous and widespread among companies, at least among the most sensitive ones. In a path of overall lightening of the wines in search of balance and finesse - one would say picking up the stylistic legacy of Franco Biondi Santi (“uncompromising guardian” of the Brunello tradition, invented, at the end of the 19th century, by his family, at Tenuta Greppo, ed.) sidereally distant from the expression of the Brunellos of the first decade of the New Millennium - and that leaves out of the cellar door over-extension and oversized contribution of oak. An obvious change in perspective that also determines, at the same time, in an increasingly clear way, the differences in the wines obtained in the North or South of the appellation. The result is wines with multifaceted and airy aromas and fragrant and dynamic flavor progressions, while not lacking a certain warmth. Perhaps more ready, but certainly more enjoyable and more relaxed drinking. Such as, for example, looking at the WineNews staff’s best tastings, among the wines present at “Benvenuto Brunello” 2024, the Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Montosoli 2020 from Canalicchio di Sopra, which has the makings of great wine, with its defined aromas crossing earth, small red fruits, balsamic and spicy flashes; in the mouth the sip is dynamic and with nice savory-sweet contrast, ending in an airy and deep finish. Caparzo’s Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 2020, has good aromatic definition that moves from red fruit to herbs on a spicy background, accompanying a fine and balanced sip. Castello Tricerchi’s Brunello di Montalcino AD 1441 smells of freshly wilted flowers, earth and herbs; in the mouth the sip is tapered and dynamic, finishing deep and contrasted. Cortonesi’s Brunello di Montalcino Poggiarelli 2020, again, possesses aromatic baggage with a classic timbre on freshly ripe fruit and underbrush, returning a flavorful, continuous and long mouthfeel. Corte Pavone’s Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Poggio Molino al Vento 2020, for its part, possesses well-marked aromas and a solid, very tasty mouthfeel. But also noteworthy is Fattoi’s Brunello di Montalcino 2020, which smells of violets and citrus, with flashes of earthy and smoky; the mouthfeel is forthright, tasty and intense. Gianni Brunelli’s Brunello di Montalcino 2020, on the other hand, is a refined wine, both in its floral and spicy aromatic traits and in its deep, airy and balanced flavor progression. Giodo’s Brunello di Montalcino 2020 offers an impeccable stylistic approach, with graceful and defined aromas and a fine and delicate flavor progression, with almost Burgundian suggestions. Gorelli’s Brunello 2020, again, is a wine of great gustatory energy in the classic sweet-acid game of Montalcino wines, adding an aromatic profile with references to flowers and flint on a smoky base. Le Chiuse’s Brunello di Montalcino 2020, initially timid in revealing its aromas of earth, red fruit and smoky tones, finds its strong point in the mouth with a savory, crisp and airy sip. Maté’s Brunello di Montalcino Veltha 2020 moves from aromatic hints of ripe red fruit to more fragrant orange and herbs, adding a fine, well-profiled sip. Le Ragnaie’s Brunello di Montalcino Casanovina Montosoli 2020 possesses a refined aromatic cross between flower spices and iron hints; in the mouth, the sip never loses its liveliness, concluding with a finish with references to light fruits. Beautiful red fruit and blood and underbrush tones for the nose of Poggi Antico’s Brunello di Montalcino Vigna I Poggi 2020, which in the mouth possesses energy, articulation and great flavor. Salvioni’s Brunello di Montalcino 2020, again, has ripe, pulpy fruit to mark its aromas finished with flashes of smoke and spice; in the mouth, the sip is firm, generous and continuous. Tenuta di Sesta’ Brunello di Montalcino Costa di Monte 2020 is refined, with fruity aromas barely whispered over references to white flowers and flashes of balsamic and smoky; in the mouth, the sip is agile, deep and well-proportioned.
But also on stage at “Benvenuto Brunello” 2024 are the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019. A more powerful and sunny vintage, with warm traits and very articulated structures, not always centered. Which, however, has found interesting interpretations, as in the case of Banfi’s Brunello di Montalcino Poggio all’Oro Riserva 2019, a wine impeccable in its aromatic cleanliness and well profiled on the palate, where the sip possesses a clear and savory progression. Camigliano’s Brunello Gualto Riserva 2019 is also well made, returning intense aromas on red fruit and references to earth and spice, accompanied by a flavorful, long sip. Of note is the Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Fontelontano Riserva 2019 from Collemattoni, which displays aromas of just-wilted rose and small red fruits on a slightly spicy background, anticipating a very savory and well-profiled sip. Also good is Poggio di Sotto’s Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019, with lush and intense fruity aromas against a balsamic background and a juicy and articulate mouthfeel. And finally, Ridolfi’s Brunello di Montalcino Mercatale Riserva 2019 with aromas of herbs ripe red fruit and underbrush that moves continuously and pulpy in the mouth.
In edition No. 33 of the presentation of the new vintages of Brunello di Montalcino, the fourth to be held in November, interrupting the judgment on the vintage expressed by the number of stars, also makes its debut a project of evaluation of the vintage entrusted to the reading of the characteristics of Brunello by an external team of experts, which will be presented, tomorrow, November 16.