Chianti, in the tastings of WineNews, a rich kaleidoscope between drinkability and pleasantness

The “Anteprime di Toscana” have come alive with “Chianti Lovers”, which has as its protagonist one of the main denominations of the Region, certainly from the point of view of numbers: Chianti which (together with Morellino di Scansano) has created a synergy that put the focus on the great topic of the Tuscany brand, which takes its strength from the many diversities, and its weakness instead from the fragmentation. In Florence, Chianti, an area with vineyards covering 15,000 hectares, from which an average of 750,000 hectoliters of wine is obtained, brings the latest vintage, 2021, together with 2020 (Chianti Superiore) and Riserva 2019. Chianti is a “container” denomination which practically includes (through its sub-areas, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colline Pisane, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli and Rufina) the whole territory of Tuscany, and, in this context, offers wines with very different declinations, to respond to the multiplicity of market needs, especially the international ones, of which the appellation is the protagonist. From this point of view, the war in Ukraine places it as one of the denominations with some more fibrillation, testified, for example, by the price of its bulk which, a fortnight ago, was 180 euros per liter (a figure, however very interesting) and today, however, it moves around 170 euros per hectolitre. From a commercial point of view, 2021 was still an excellent year for Chianti, which saw the volumes increase by + 5%, to 722,690 hectoliters (equal to almost 100 million bottles, more than half of the Dop bottled of the Region), so much so that, at the end of December 2021, the Tuscany Region decided to accept the requests of the Chianti Consortium to bring forward the release on the market of the 2021 vintage to January 1, two months ahead of the usual date, so as not to leave the shelves without Chianti. Which, after having marked a slight growth in sales also in 2020 (+ 2%), a black year for the Italian economy, closes 2021 with + 10% of turnover (for 65% from exports, mostly USA, Germany, UK, and Japan, and 35% from the domestic market), for an average shelf price of 5-7 euros per bottle, and as many as 22 million bottles sold in Italian large-scale distribution alone (they were 14 million in 2014).
But let's get to the wines. Behind it, a vintage to be considered, with some critical emphasis, especially due to its generally warm climatic trend, but still capable of giving immediately pleasant wines with sweetness as the protagonist. More interesting is 2020 which offers labels of greater balance, in a framework of fragrant drinkability. Le Riserva 2019, on the other hand, comes from a vintage with an almost textbook seasonal trend, revealing rhythmic and well-profiled wines, albeit in the context of a typology, the Riserva, which sometimes continues to offer a little more “loaded” declinations, especially from the point of view of the use of wood.
Always enjoyable, even in a vintage certainly not to be framed, the Chianti Biskero 2021 from Salcheto. Good overall sensations, from which an accentuated drinkability emerges for the Chianti Vigna di Pallino 2021 of Tenuta Sette Ponti. The Chianti 2021 of Castello di Poppiano is pleasant and defined. With a nuanced tone in the perfumes and pleasantly warm and sweet, the Chianti 2021 of the Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano. From the range of companies with large production numbers, Ruffino’s Chianti Superiore 2020 is definitely well centered. Clear and well defined, between fruit and spices, the nose of the Chianti Vinciano Riserva 2019 from Fattoria Calappiano (Sensi), with a rhythmic and tasty character. Beautiful aromatic definition, well matched in a juicy and agile gustatory progression for the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Vigna La Querce Riserva 2019 of Castelvecchio. Refined both in aromas and in its gustatory progression, with pleasantly spicy tones, the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Badia a Corte Riserva 2019 by Torre a Cona. The Chianti Colli Fiorentini La Torretta Riserva 2019 by La Querce is juicy and well balanced in the mouth, on the nose with beautifully iodized contrasts on a fruity background. The Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2019 by Malenchini is scented with floral tones and savory to the taste.