Valpolicella is going lighter, serving wines cold, to win over young people

The second edition of “Venezia Superiore” 2024, the event- focus dedicated specifically to Valpolicella was held yesterday at Palazzo Ferro Fini in Venice at the Lagoon. The Consorzio Vini Valpolicella stated in its socio-economic focus of the primary red wine denomination of the Veneto Region, presented to the press and the Regional councilors of the Veneto Region that the market has given clear indications. It is a delicate moment for wine, especially red wine, as in the first half of 2024, Valpolicella, the most “contemporary”, fresh and light wine of the famous Venetian territory, produced nearly 9.5 million bottles (+0.4% compared to the same period in 2023). This number is substantially in line with the pre-pandemic figure in 2019, taking into account the slowdown of Amarone and Ripasso. The event continued in the evening with a walk around tasting for wine enthusiasts in the Loggia Maggiore of the Rialto Pescheria, among 42 wines, between Valpolicella and Valpolicella Superiore, from 30 companies.
The event was a perfect stage for Valpolicella to interpret the tastes of young wine lovers who are not inclined to consume wine, because, instead it is easy to drink, thanks to its organoleptic characteristics and the low alcohol content of the majority of the wines. Valpolicella therefore is an opportunity to be seized. “On all public occasions”, Christian Marchesini, president of the Consortium, told WineNews, “I have urged producers to produce lighter Valpolicella, to lower the alcohol content, because this is the trend in changing consumption, and to segment them correctly, not exceeding 13.5 degrees alcohol in the case of Superiore, and 12.5 in Valpolicella. Furthermore, I hope that someone will have the courage to put them on the market with the minimum parameters set by the specifications (11 and 12 degrees alcohol, respectively, for Valpolicella and Valpolicella Superiore, ed.). Corvina adapts wonderfully to this purpose, while Valpolicella DOC Superiore is at the center of a production and commercial regeneration. The producers are investing heavily in this wine, which best represents our territory, and its freshness and drinkability easily wins over young wine enthusiasts”. Regarding the practice of putting the grapes destined for Superiore to rest for a short period, Marchesini emphasized that one of the Consortium's indications is to avoid this practice. “At the shareholders' meeting, which took place on July 15th, regarding the decisions to be made about selecting the grapes to be used for the various Valpolicella denomination red wines”, he explained, “I pointed out how much global warming caused by climate change helps us. This year as well, the phenological phases are earlier and the grapes will reach full ripeness, making drying unnecessary to produce Valpolicella Superiore”. However, these are "only" suggestions, and do not bind producers, unlike the mandatory Consortium requirements. “I hope that producers will follow these indications”, the president continued, as “at the moment, bottling Amarone and Ripasso is slowing down, while Valpolicella is stable. It seems to me that this is a market signal that must be considered, if one accepts the reality that suggests returning to the Valpolicella ‘of the past’”. Another point that the Consortium continues to push, especially when meeting with enthusiasts, for instance, at the Venetian event at Pescheria di Rialto, is summer serving temperature. “In the summer, Valpolicella and Valpolicella Superiore, unlike other reds, actually, must be served in bottle coolers”, Marchesini commented, “they are unlike other reds, as they have gentle tannins that allow them to be drunk cold, also when paired with fish” .
All of these suggestions are useful to maintain and consolidate the value of a wine-making territory that contributes to supporting the economy of the sector. Not only does it support at the local and Regional levels, boasting 600 million euros a year turnover, 8.617 hectares and 19 municipalities that extend from the hills to Verona, 2.200 winemakers, plus 316 bottlers and six Cooperative wineries that produced more than 61 million bottles in 2023 in Valpolicella, Valpolicella Ripasso, Amarone and Recioto. Sixty percent of production will be for wine exports to 87 Countries around the world: Canada (39%) and the USA (15%) leading the export rankings. The Consortium published the dossier that describes the evolution of the vineyard in Valpolicella since 1972, and the production evolution since 2005. The aim is to follow and update the progress and change of the denomination year by year. “The current situation is quite challenging, especially for red wines”, Marchesini emphasized, “it is important to monitor not only the markets, but also the response and adaptation capacity of the territory and the producers. The study is therefore a strategic tool to analyze and understand trends, starting from the local wine par excellence, Valpolicella Superiore, which thanks to its versatility is gaining new market shares”.