"Italian wine has unlimited potential, because everyone all over the world desires a piece of Mediterranean life and Made in Italy and things that Italy and no one else has. The future is bright, as long as people are willing to work, because, as in all sectors, nowadays you work more and earn less than before”. These are the words of Antonio Galloni, responsible for Italy's most "feared" wine criticism magazine, "The Wine Advocate", during his interview with WineNews. And even if the plans (and the new property) are looking towards Asia, Wine Advocate today is still rooted in the U.S., which for Italian wine is the top market.
So, beyond numbers that speak of a slight decrease for Italian wine in the United States, what is the feeling? “There are two markets: the top wines that are not suffering and the more economical wines, up to 20-25 Dollars on the shelf, which are also doing well. The wines that are suffering, not only in the U.S., but in general, are in the 25 to 60 dollars range. If you do not have a reputation in this price range and are not known, it’s really hard to sell, not only for Italian wines but also French, Californian, etc.”. In terms of territory, in Italy, which ones will shine more in the coming years? "I just finished a big article on the wines of South-Central Italy, and I was very impressed with Campania, where they are re-discovering many indigenous varieties, such as Black & White Pallagrello, Casavecchia, which in the U.S. are still poorly understood, and Taurasi which I find fantastic. Then, of course, Sicily, not just Etna, which is very fashionable, the Marche, especially Verdicchio, which is less known than you think and Sardinia”.
The future, however, by all accounts, passes through Asia: will "The Wine Advocate’s" move to the East change something for the wines "of the West"? "It is wrong to speak of Asia, because there are so many countries that each have a different and specific cultural approach and way of selling wines. Many Italian companies, including big names, tell me they are tougher markets than they seem. The important thing is not to forget the "loyal customers", because fashions come and go, as demonstrated by the case of Bordeaux and, sooner or later there will be economic difficulties in Asia, too”. It is a continent, however, that could also become a major producer in the wine world arena.
"China, but also India, sooner or later will make good wine, because so many people are investing there. But even if they become a major producer, there will always be room for the top wineries in other countries, including Italy. For instance, there will always be those who want to drink a Gaja or Conterno”.
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