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Allegrini 2024

TRADITIONAL AND MODERN ITALIAN CUISINE IS GROWING, THANKS TO YOUNG CHEFS AND RAW MATERIALS, "SHOWING THE WORLD THAT BEING GREAT DOES NOT NEED TO BE COMPLICATED". THIS AND OTHER REFLECTIONS POST 2018 MICHELIN GUIDE

Norbert Niederkofler's mountain and "silent" cuisine at the St. Hubertus of St. Cassian (https://goo.gl/187rsk) restaurant has led to Italy’s ninth Michelin "three stars" restaurant, while the "mediatic" cuisine, perhaps too much so, of Carlo Cracco (who has stepped down, and starting with this edition, is leaving "MasterChef”, ed.), has been downgraded, after 14 years, from 2 to 1 star (together with Claudio Sadler). This is just one of the many reflections, in a sort of "synthesis reading", emerged at the presentation of the Michelin Guide 2018, yesterday in Parma.
The news about Cracco has created an uproar due to the notoriety of the chef, who, however, took it well, with philosophy. “I think it's right, in 20 days we are closing to open somewhere else, and therefore”, he said, “it is also a correct decision. It would have been better not to lose the star, they are always good to have, but first of all, we did not respect the dates for the opening of the new Cracco Restaurant, which has slipped from September to January.

In general, it is a fact that Italian haute cuisine is growing, as the 3 new 2 stars and 22 new one stars confirm (the total in Italy is 356, the highest number ever). “Our team is stronger and stronger and our cuisine is more and more established in the world, also thanks to so many young people who are passionate, knowledgeable and enthusiastic”, said the most acclaimed Italian chef Massimo Bottura, who is excited, like all of his three starred colleagues about the promotion of Niederkofler. Overall, Italian haute-cuisine is growing, which undoubtedly is a reward for a school of thought tied mainly to young chefs who know their territorial roots but are open to the new and experimental, strong in quality and the variety of raw materials in Italy.
“Italy, for me, has the best food in the world”, said Michael Ellis Michelin Guide Director, https://goo.gl/JkKC1s, “which thanks to your great chefs is traditional and contemporary together. And then, your strength is in the great products and raw materials you have; you are demonstrating to the world that high-quality cooking does not need to be complicated – you need good products and the chef's ability to turn quality raw materials into a sublime dish. Italians know how to do it better than others”.
This is a significant injection of confidence for the whole industry and chain, which goes from producing raw materials to the finished dish at restaurants. Awaiting further growth, perhaps a new three stars in the 2019 edition in the South, which is an extraordinary basin of excellent raw materials and products awarded for its widespread quality with many one and two stars (Campania is the second most starred region after Lombardy), although, with the exception of Niko Romito’s Reale di Castel di Sangro, it would also deserve the utmost recognition and some "three stars", which in fact, are almost all from Rome up.
The director of the Michelin World Guide, Ellis, also expressed his opinion about the ongoing partnership between Michelin and "The Wine Advocate". “We work in the same way and have a very important role in the catering industry. Two weeks ago in New York”, Michael Ellis explained, “we hosted the fourth dinner for starred chefs, served with 95-point and up wines from Robert Parker and "The Wine Advocate" - a fabulous wedding. For now, it's a simple partnership, we are working together, but it's too early to talk about Robert Parker in the guide or vice versa. We have a very fruitful collaboration”.

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