THE FUTURE OF GLOBAL WINE, ACCORDING TO JANCIS ROBINSON, WINE CORRESPONDENT FOR THE “FINANCIAL TIMES” AND ONE OF THE MOST QUOTED PALATES IN THE WORLD. THOUGH, AT TIMES, SHE DOES FORGET ITALIAN WINES…

Jancis Robinson, Master of Wine 1984, and wine correspondent for the “Financial Times”, is, without a doubt, one of the most acclaimed wine writers in the world. An editor for “The Oxford Companion to Wine”, she, along with Hugh Johnson of the” World Atlas of Wine”, is considered one of the most important authorities in the wine tasting sector, which she reigns over on her web site, www.jancisrobinson.com.
It is difficult not to be impressed by her resume and here “certified” experience in international wine, even though it has to be noted that the British connoisseur does not appear to have a particular affection for Italian wines and winemakers, at least in regards to her recent “purging” at the latest international meeting in Davos, as well as the Robinson formula comments on her site in reference to her brief visit to Vinitaly (last March 31, to assign the “Grand Cru d’Italia” awards).
At the awards ceremony during Vinitaly in Verona, Robinson made the following comments: “Usually when asked to predict the future, people look at what’s happening now. In the mid 90’s, I would have had to have predicted that the entire world would be planted with Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. How wrong that would have been. I’ve been writing about wine long enough to understand that the pendulum, like trends, oscillates back and forth and it may appear that the future of wine trends remains stuck in sweet and potent wines, but I strongly believe that this pendulum has reached its maximum oscillation and that it is progressively turning back towards a more delicate and elegant style, more important for the quality of a wine, its freshness and drinkability.

“Consumers are expressing growing aversions to exaggerated wines, and preferences for more fine and subtle wines. They want to drink, not taste. Retailers (like Marks & Spencer, for example), buy increasing amounts of less alcoholic wines. Producers, in a battle against climate change, ever more invasive yeasts, and the influence of wine tastings in which heavier wines emerge more easily, are searching for complexities in odors to the detriment of alcohol levels.

“You producers are very important: constantly more attentive to clients, ever more attentive to wines, more so than retailers. Producers are also extremely sensitive tasters and drinkers. I trust you as guides to a return towards fresher and more drinkable wines by using all of the technical innovations and scientific knowledge that we have available, and which we did not have 10 or 5 years ago.
With impending global warming, I wouldn’t be surprised to see an increase in interest towards white wines. As for price, the future does not seem so bright. The market continues to expand and there is an increase in prices on the “trophy wines” (collectible wines) front. An ever growing number of collectors from the new markets like Asia, Russia, South America, don’t worry about how much they spend, unlike the British… There are many good wines (not trophy) but they need time before they can earn a reputation sufficient enough to reach higher prices. The pressure of prices on trophy wines will continue unfortunately. And these wines will remain in a special kingdom that is an unknown land for the ordinary drinker – a shame.

“Is it very depressing for producers to think that they are producing luxury goods rather than solid wines? “Trophy wines” are still only for millionaires. Maybe this will create the push for producers to put more effort in creating their second wines, knowing that these are the only ones that common enthusiasts are capable of having…

“The competition will continue to increase as much as the wine world grows. This will halt prices below those of “trophy wines”, which have increased too quickly. The packaging will evolve: cork-wood corks versus twist-off tops. Are bottles necessary? Communications: producers and consumers will continue to put increasing pressure on communicators in between. If I was beginning today, I would go directly online – very democratic and truly global.

Dear producers, don’t forget that wine is not only money, alcohol or points, but also pleasure”.

Jancis Robinson