At the table, on the plate and in the glass, it is the era of lightness, synonymous with Lambrusco

Today, when it comes to food and drink, “lightness” seems to be one of the qualities most sought after by contemporary consumers. This is a quality that a wine such as Lambrusco, in its many facets and versions, has always embodied, accompanied by a significant evolution in the quality of this wine in recent years. Lambrusco is a wine that historically opened the American market to Italian wines as early as the 1970s and is consistently among the best-selling wines in Italy. And it was precisely lightness that was the common thread of “World Lambrusco Day” 2025, which took place in recent days in a unique location, the peaks of Mont Blanc, with great chefs, sommeliers and others, with Lambrusco as the protagonist, accompanied by another excellence from Emilia Romagna, Parmigiano Reggiano, and products from the Val d’Aosta region. The event was organized by the Lambrusco Protection Consortium, which represents six appellations between Modena and Reggio Emilia: Modena DOC, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC, Reggiano DOC, Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa DOC (in addition to these, there are two other appellations for wines other than Lambrusco, Reno DOC and Bianco di Castelfranco Emilia IGT), for a total of 16,600 hectares of vineyards in the two provinces, of which 10,000 are dedicated to Lambrusco, and a production that, in 2024, stood at 40 million bottles of Lambrusco DOC (to which must be added over 100 million bottles of Lambrusco Emilia IGT, which fall under the protection of the Consorzio Vini Emilia).
Lambrusco is a diverse universe (as evidenced by the recent creation of “I Custodi del Lambrusco”, an association of 27 companies whose stated purpose is to “rediscover the greatness of Lambrusco,” ed.), but they all share a common trait, which is “lightness”. And this seems to be a winning trait, as chefs Heinz Beck, three-starred with La Pergola del Rome Cavalieri, Paolo Griffa, of the starred “Paolo Griffa al Caffè Nazionale” in Aosta, Pascla Tinari, maître and sommelier at “Villa Maiella”, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Guardiagrele (Chieti), producers Cecilia Lombardini (Ca’ Cecilia Lombardini) and Alessandro Medici (Medici Ermete).
Lightness is a theme that fits well with the philosophy of chef Heinz Beck, who has always believed that good cuisine should not be heavy and should always consider its impact on the well-being of the guest. “I usually say that dinner ends the next morning”, commented Beck, explaining how, for twenty-five years, he has chosen to give his cuisine a well-defined direction, while participating in important studies and research, which he considers key elements for making informed and thoughtful decisions. “When it comes to lightness”, added the chef, “Lambrusco is the perfect wine: it has a low alcohol content and can be easily paired with many dishes. We have had Lambrusco on our restaurant’s wine list for more than 10-15 years. I always think it is one of the most modern wines available at the moment, and in recent years, producers have created some wonderful wines”. “For us”, said Paolo Griffa, “lightness is found throughout the menu. We put it into practice by seeking out the freshest ingredients possible and working with local products. Today, people go to restaurants with a different goal than in the past. They are not looking for large quantities, but rather the opportunity to have a memorable experience and return home with a carefree memory. It is a 360° experience in which hospitality is as important as the dishes, as is time, which has become a fundamental ingredient in a restaurant”. Pascal Tinari, sommelier, shared his perspective on dining room service. “Lightness is a well-executed depth. It means being aware, and this applies to every role and profession. All we have to do is convey what the producer and chef do with the utmost respect. We are required to know how to value time, aware that the restaurant is a place to enjoy a pleasant moment. Lightness is learned by thinking of oneself as a guest and learning to do as children do. They first observe, then only if they are convinced do they touch, then smell, then perhaps put it in their mouths, and finally chew and swallow. We adults have lost the habit of proceeding gradually, when it should be normal to proceed step by step and enjoy every single step. So when a guest enters the restaurant, you can ask them if they had a good journey before seating them. We must make room for lightness, understood as naturalness and respect for the guest”.
According to wine producers such as Alessandro Medici, however, “Italian wine is not experiencing its best moment, due to three main factors. The first is economic: many markets are going through a crisis, which contrasts with the price, which has increased significantly in recent years. The second is linked to health trends that are leading more and more people to change the way they eat. The third is the perception of wine, which is no longer considered as cool as it once was. Lambrusco DOC has excellent cards to play on all three fronts. The price range is perhaps the one that has suffered least from the decline in consumption in some key markets, such as the US, so its positioning is spot on. It has great acidity, which means freshness and drinkability, as well as a low alcohol content. On the third point, a lot of work can be done in terms of communication, playing down the narrative. Lambrusco is perhaps the pop wine par excellence and must necessarily begin to engage with the younger generations. This can be done in many ways, for example by embracing mixology and signature cocktails. It is also important to forge links with Food Valley, the region where Lambrusco originates and which gives it its distinctive characteristics. Last but not least, it is essential to work as a team. Send a single message, in a unified and concerted manner, about a high-quality, contemporary product that meets the market needs described above”. The contemporary nature of Lambrusco was also reiterated by producer Cecilia Lombardini, who emphasized its great versatility and ability to pair with dishes from many different cuisines. “Lightness is liveliness, cheerfulness, conviviality. Lambrusco is all of this; above all, it is lightness of spirit. Of course, when it comes to products that contain alcohol, there are aspects that must always be taken into consideration, but conscious consumption should not be confused with abuse. I would also like to emphasize Lambrusco’s maximum pairing potential: I consider it one of the most versatile wines in the world. Despite having a common name, Lambrusco, it comes in many colors, characteristics, and types. That is why, from Oriental to South American cuisine, there are many international dishes that can be paired with our wine. I believe this is one of the winning characteristics of Lambrusco, which combines the typical structure of a red wine with effervescence. We will do everything we can to continue promoting it and improving it, day after day”. According to Master of Wine Gabriele Gorelli, key words such as “knowledge, awareness, but also empathy, or the ability to put others first” emerged from the debate. And that is precisely what lightness means: not weighing down those in front of you and conveying a message more through what you do than what you say. Storydoing rather than storytelling. And if wine, in general, comes from a period in which the aim was to enrich it, aiming for more body and structure, while today in many areas there is a return to the past, with the risk, however, of losing some of its identity, “Lambrusco has never had this problem, because lightness is part of its identity. Today, remarkable expressions can be achieved, but this is a result that has not been obtained by distorting a wine but by enhancing its already distinctive characteristics. It should be remembered that taste trends, even in the world of wine, are cyclical, and the current trend towards lighter wines is certainly perfectly in line with the qualities of Lambrusco”.
Closing the “World Lambrusco Day” event 2025, with the Consortium’s masterful direction, was a “four-handed” dinner created by chefs Heinz Beck and Paolo Griffa at an altitude of 3,466 meters at Punta Helbronner, where a wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, created and opened for the occasion, was also unveiled, displaying the next destination for World Lambrusco Day: next year, the event will see its international edition in New York.